Types of collars - what are, a selection of photos of the most fashionable collars in clothes. An important trifle: types of coat collars What are the collars on blouses

Types of collars for women's coats

Surprisingly, a single classification of collars outerwear(despite the fact that this detail is over 500 years old!) is still missing. Some divide them according to the way they are combined with the neck into set-in and one-piece, others according to the type of fastener into open and closed, others are generally perplexed: “How can you combine a hundred different styles, where each collar is a small masterpiece of tailoring art?!” The most general "breakdown" is given in the tutorials on cutting and sewing: "Models of outerwear can have standing, stand-turn-down, flat-lying, jacket and fantasy types of collars." Let's stop on it.

1. Stand collars

"Racks" were the first collars to appear on outerwear. Stand-up collars give products a strict, concise look, which is why they are popular in uniforms and office clothes. Due to the high degree of closeness of clothing with this type of collar, it is popular in products for the cold season: jackets, coats, windbreakers.

Today, a stand-up collar is used mainly for sewing outerwear, and its height varies between 2-5 centimeters. The most popular types of racks: "tangerine", "clamp" and "pipe".

"Mandarin" (aka "Chinese" and "Mao")

Already from the name it is clear that this collar came to us from Imperial China, a country with a strict hierarchical ladder and the same strict dress code. "Tangerines" here for a long time officials and civil servants were called, wearing suits with a short, tight-fitting neck, stand-up collar, the edges of which either touch in the middle or run into each other a little.

A coat with such a collar will surely appeal to women who know a lot about the subtle beauty of the East or prefer minimalist clothing. And in the men's collections, "Mao" - as a symbol of authoritarianism and power - is most often found on brutal picots, strict uniforms like those of Napoleonic marshals and laconic denim jackets.

"Yoke"

And this is a greeting from the recent Soviet past. Born "collar" from English a knitted sweater, more precisely from its neck (in the USSR, this fashion came in the 60s). At first, he was very reminiscent of his ancestors - he was knitted, soft and tall. Later it began to be sewn from other materials: cashmere, wool, satin.

“Clamp”, as needlewomen and fashion designers affectionately call this type, softens the lines of a classic coat, gives it a touch of charming femininity. IN last years collar collar increasingly prefers to perform solo, becoming separate subject women's wardrobe.

"Pipe" and its variety "Funnel"

The same as the "collar", but from a stiffer fabric, without numerous cozy folds and waves.

2. Stand-up turndown

They consist of two parts: a hidden rack and a visible pointed or, conversely, rounded departure.

Despite the variety of stand-up collars (“kent”, “butterfly”, “vario”, “tab”, etc.), only one model is usually used for sewing a coat - “shark”. Its feature is widely spaced (like the mouth of a predator) corners of departure. So wide that they form an obtuse angle. Other types of stand-up collars adorn men's and women's shirts.

3. Flat-lying

Purely female collars, which were brought into fashion ... by a man. The cute king of England Henry III was passionately fond of dressing up. And to put on perfume, wear white stockings and curl your hair. Once, the king considered that the popular "millstones" were very heavy and not elegant enough and ordered to make for himself a camisole with a light lace collar. Well, what the head of state wears, everyone wears. Later, such collars began to be sewn from satin and velvet, for greater beauty they were cleaved with a brooch and tied with a ribbon.

Today to find outerwear with a flat collar - great luck. Such coat models are beautiful, a little naive, incredibly feminine, but not very practical (weakly cover the neck), so they are supplied to stores in limited quantities.

4. Jackets

These are collars that have switched to outerwear from formal suits, men's jackets and tailcoats.

"English"(more common under the name "classic")

The most popular and perfect type of collar. Strict and elegant like an English aristocrat, he has been out of fashion and time for three centuries in a row, and it is not for nothing that almost all the coats of the President of Russia are decorated with this respectable collar!

East and West are fighting for the right to call it their own. The first claim that such the shape of the collar had national Chinese robes, the latter are sure that Schalke- the invention of the Byzantines, who have long loved to decorate the sides of outerwear with fur. Of these disputes, only one thing is known for sure: in the old days, only a rich and noble person could afford a schalke collar. (The poor preferred more practical styles).

"Apache"

A strongly open rectangular collar, vaguely reminiscent of a guis in shape. In Russia it was popular in the 60s of the last century. In Europe, he has been known for a long time, but is considered the collar of rebellious youth and hooligans - Apaches. These young people from the country of noble wines and intricate streets wore such wide collars to show their independence, a dismissive attitude towards the “noose” tie, because it was simply impossible to wear it with an Apache shirt!

5. Fantasy

This group can safely include everything that was not included in the previous four. Fantasy collars rarely stay afloat for a long time, these are, as a rule, edgy models that are worth buying in two cases:

1) You like to update your wardrobe often and be in trend.

2) You already have a couple of classic coats and lack the original style for a special occasion.

Undergoing characteristic changes corresponding to each era. In the days of aristocrats, the collar acquired the status of an independent accessory. We owe the appearance of the so-called English collar to Peter I. Women's practicality led to the appearance of removable collars, which are very popular in modern fashion.

But whatever the collar, original or simple, avant-garde or classic, it remains an integral part of the product, performing both practical and aesthetic functions.

Collar with stitched stand

Such a collar is sewn into the neck along with a stand, which serves as a “completing” and shaping part. A collar with a stitched stand is most often found on jackets and coats. In the instructions for Burda patterns, its details are referred to as "collar" and "collar stand".

Collar with lapels

By itself, the lapel is a part of swing clothes, a lapel on a shelf. Lapels come in various widths and shapes. The upper and lower collars are stitched separately.

A collar with lapels is distinguished by the method of stitching.

Collar with lapels, stitchedright angle

Tacked collar with lapels, sewn in at right angles

For blouses and dresses made of thin, soft fabrics, a collar with lapels sewn at a right angle can be grabbed: the part of the upper collar is turned up and sewn to the seam of the collar. The same is with the shoulder cuts of the bands - they are tucked up and sewn to the allowances of the shoulder seams.

Stand collar

One of the easiest to process and build collars. Differs in various height and degree of fit to the neck. It can consist of two parts or be cut from a fabric folded in half. may reach the edge of the sides of the shelves or not reach them.

Shirt collar

Without this collar, it is difficult to imagine or. always has a stance that extends to the edge of the bead. The collar stand can be one-piece with a collar, or it can be cut separately.

Shirt collar with stitched stand

Shirt collar with one-piece stand

Golf collar

Such a collar is a hallmark of turtlenecks and sweaters. In order for a golf collar made of ordinary fabric to lie well, if necessary, cut along the oblique. The collar of knitted fabrics is cut out in the direction of the loop column.

Tie collar

Its main purpose is decorative. To a greater extent, it serves as a finished product, dress or blouse. This collar is cut out both along the share and along the oblique.

Such a seemingly familiar piece of clothing, like a collar. Overhead, turn-down, stand-up collars - in our wardrobe there are a lot of things where they are present. But, in fact, the collar has a very interesting and rich history.

It is generally accepted that the prototypes of modern false collars appeared among the ancient Egyptians. They were part of the predominant men's wardrobe, covered not only the neck, but also the shoulders, and were decorated with glass beads, embroidery and inlays of precious stones. The presence of such decor also had a distinctive function, for example, the military class had obligatory red stripes on one shoulder.

The warm climate of ancient Greece and Rome allowed residents of policies and cities to do without collars for most of the year. The rest of the time they wore neckerchiefs. They were especially appreciated by the Roman legionnaires. Scarves were comfortable both in hot and cold weather, yes, and ammunition and armor did not rub the neck, which was very handy.

In the Dark Ages, the collar was an ordinary strip of fabric; commoners often did without it at all. The situation changed closer to the 13th century, when the stand-up collar type became established on the European continent - first as a sewn-on part of an aristocratic costume, and then as an independent unit that was worn separately. The Spaniards and the French were the legislators, but soon the fashion spread throughout Western Europe.

At that time, Rus' had its own version of this element of clothing. And it was called by our ancestors "barma". Usually they were worn in the form of a shoulder over the main dress, richly embroidered with beads, pearls or jewelry. Barmas were available exclusively to princely, boyar and royal families. However, standing collars were also not uncommon.

False collars received real development in the Renaissance. They were sewn mainly from velvet and fur. Venetian doges and courtesans decorated their clothes with them: dresses, tunics and camisoles.

In the Renaissance, the Spanish grandees picked up the baton by introducing a stiff stand-up collar made of tulle or guipure into their wardrobe. He was quite tall, with ruffles and lace. This accessory went down in history under the name "Stuart" in honor of the Scottish Queen Mary Stuart, who was very fond of this outfit from white tulle or guipure.

French dandies, wanting to outdo everyone, went further and increased the size of the frill, which made the attire a little grotesque. However, it did not seem so to the bohemia of that time.

And in the 16th century, the so-called collar "cutter" came into fashion. It was round, corrugated, and at the same time so hard and lush that it was very problematic to turn your head in such clothes. But, nevertheless, they were worn by nobles and merchants in almost all of Europe. These collars were made of very thin white fabric, decorated with lace, the most exquisite of which at that time were from Brabant and Venice.

Further development of these elements of clothing continued, and at the next stage, a fan collar fastened on the back came into fashion. Presumably it was invented by Florentine tailors. Like it or not, there is still no consensus, but in history this collar is about round shape remained under the name "Medici", in honor of the Queen of France Catherine de Medici.

By the way, it was this type of collar that her English "colleague" Elizabeth I liked to wear, only the "island" fashion suggested a slightly different shape - a double semicircle.

In pre-Petrine Rus', the boyars wore something similar, but the overseas name was unknown and this collar was called "trump".

The first half of the 17th century brought new trends. At the Swedish royal court, instead of standing collars, turn-down collars came into fashion. Ladies and gentlemen flaunted in richly lace camisoles and dresses, but their subjects covered their necks with ordinary white collars.

Later, Europe was swept by the fashion for wigs. Lush false hair fell on the back and shoulders, which could not but affect the style of the collars. They are significantly shortened at the back, but in front they have become longer. The shape has also changed - the elongated ends have become rectangular. This type of collar was called "discount". In Russia, they appeared after the reforms of Peter I and his introduction of European dress into everyday life.

In the 18th century, the British invented their tailcoat with a stand-up collar. The costume itself changed several times, but the type of collar remained the same for a long time.

And in 1827, US resident Hannah Montague one day came up with a simple solution to save money on laundry. men's shirts. Since the most soiled part of them was the collar, Hanna simply separated it from the main part of the shirt and sewed on a clean one.

Thus began the era of detachable collars. Military tailors especially liked this invention. Detachable collars as part of army uniforms were adopted in many countries and remained so for a long time.

At the beginning of the 20th century, James Barry's fairy tale "Peter Pan" was successfully staged on Broadway. Actress Maud Adams, who plays the lead role, took an active part in creating the appearance of her character. It was she who came up with the white turn-down collar, as a detail of the costume of "the boy who did not want to grow up." With her light hand these accessories became the main "squeak" of the then fashion.

Even the world-famous Coco Chanel did not ignore them.

They were very popular throughout the 20th century. They were especially relevant in the 60s and 70s.

And today they also do not go out of fashion. Many famous couturiers use this wardrobe detail in their collections. You can see them on the catwalks of different venues around the world. And no wonder, because they are able to give femininity and elegance to any attire, make any thing stylish and unique - from a blouse or T-shirt to an evening dress.

Surprisingly, such a detail on clothes as a collar appeared only in the Middle Ages, representing a narrow strip on a men's shirt. But today collars are important details with a huge variety of sizes and shapes. Over the centuries, the collar has managed to be wide, and huge, and miniature, and soft, and hard, and lace, and even frame. And only a few decades ago it became the way we can see it today on men's and women's clothing. Modern fashion actively uses the main types of women's collars, which we will talk about.

"Peter Pan". Most often, a turn-down adjacent collar with soft rounded ends is decorated with clothes, the fasteners on which are closed with slats. These collars look very elegant and feminine. Its name is indirectly connected with the character of the famous fairy tale, since in the production of the same name, the actress Maud Adams took part in a dress with just such a collar. The outfit for her was sewn by John White Alexander, who is considered the "parent" of this collar.

sailor collar. Easily recognizable form, reminiscent of guis. It is not necessary to use blue and white colors. A fairly large triangle with a deep V-neck can have any color. Usually used for decoration summer tops and dresses. This kind female collar today it is very popular, as it is the trend of the summer season. It is worth noting that the traditional guis in the interpretation of modern designers looks very stylish!

Collar without stand, turn-down. If we consider the most common types of collars on a dress or blouse, then this one is perhaps the most popular. This collar got its name because of the ability to bend the edges. It differs from the classic shirt in the absence of a rigid stand. Turn-down collars are often used by designers who create clothes in vintage and.

Rack. The most simple, elegant basic look, characterized by a snug fit around the neck and associated with a stripe sewn to the neck. Most often, these types of collars are sewn on coats, blouses and uniforms.

Halter. An incredibly spectacular detail that looks great on an evening dress! It is an elongated loop, exposing the shoulders and emphasizing the length of the neck.

Turn-down with buttons and stand. It differs from the usual shirt by the presence of buttons, with which the ends of the collar are fastened to the shelves of the product. It was invented by the Brooks brothers for sports polo shirts, and this type of collar appeared on women's clothing only in the early sixties of the last century. It is worth noting that buttons or buttons do not perform a practical function.

Mandarin. Very stylish collar, characterized by compactness and elegance. Looks great on blouses and dresses. In fact, it is a modified “stand”, but without a fastener and closing of the ends.

jabot. Removable or sewn - it doesn't matter! On blouses, dresses and even coats, the frill collar, associated with exquisite vertical flounces, looks spectacular, adding femininity.

Ascot. A wide "stand" with elongated ends that can be tied with a tie or bow, in the center or on the side. Ideal for creating an image in an office or business style.

Golf. We used to call turtlenecks that way, but the word "golf" refers to their collar. This is an elongated "stand", tucked down and tightly fitting the neck. In warm knitwear and knitted things this collar is irreplaceable!

Now you also know what types of collars are on women's clothing.

According to the method of combining with the neckThere are several types of collars:

• set-in;
• one-piece with product details;
• removable.

Collar models can be divided into the following groups:

Types of collars

• Stand collar (band collar)
• One-piece stand-up collar - is integral with the shelves and backs of products.
• The stand-up collar is tubular - a high, rather rigid collar used in coats and jackets.
• Funnel-shaped stand-up collar - a style of a collar not adjacent to the neck.
• Collar Mao - a stand with a vertical slit without rounding the edges of the collar.
• Chinese stand-up collar or Mandarin collar (mandarin collar) - with a slit in the center and rounded edges or straight edges; found in models of military tunics, but in a women's suit it is popular as a Chinese collar, Remarkably, such a collar is also called the Nehru collar,
• Stand-up collar with turned-down corners - used in men's shirts since the 19th century; occasionally found in women's fashion.
• Collar - golf (turtleneck collar, roll-neck collar) - soft stand collar - high collar, turned down, close to the neck. At its core, it is a wide, double stand-up collar. It almost completely covers the neck. Very common in knitwear, classic turtleneck collar
• Vorotkin-cadet - a soft high (up to the chin) stand-up collar, usually fastened with a zipper. May turn away and become repulsive. Most often, it is sewn from a contrasting fabric with a ribbed texture. The cadet collar is a classic type of collar for men's and women's sports jackets and olympics, made from knitwear, nylon or baize

• Collar collar - soft stand-up collar, lying in the form of soft folds.
• Collar "Stuart" - stand-up collar, decorated with lace at the top.
• Shirt collar - has a wide variety of departure configurations with pointed or rounded edges.
• Polo collar - a small stand-up collar with three button closures
• The English collar is the most common collar style for classic-style jackets, coats, raincoats.
• Chelsea collar.
• Collar - shawl (shawl) - shawl (shawl collar) - a standing-turn-down collar with one-piece lapels of a rounded shape, a feature of which is cutting out the upper collar along with the selections; used in jackets, coats, robes, dresses, etc.
• The apache collar is a stand-up turn-down collar with wide lapels, loosely lying on the shoulders; appeared in a man's suit as a sign of a freedom-loving character, because it is impossible to wear a tie with him, and was named "apache" after the name of the American Indian tribe, which means "hooligan, robber" in French.
• Collar "Peter Pan" (Peter Pen collar) - a small collar of a round shape, became popular in 1904 and is named after the hero of a literary work.
• Flat collar "dog ears"
• The "Bertha" collar is a large collar that covers the shoulders, most often made of lace, but other options are also possible.
• Guys - sailor collar (sailor collar) - a large rectangular collar of blue color with three white stripes along the edge; it is believed that at first it was made in the form of a leather part that protects the suit from stains due to a braid-like hairstyle, according to another version, a pea jacket was transformed into a collar, protecting the head from splashes.
• Jabot collar (jabot) - consists of several frills sewn into the neck
• Collar-kokilje - in the form of a shuttlecock, cut along an oblique or in a circle and sewn into the neck.
• Hood Collar - A hood is sewn in place of the collar.
• Ascot collar or Bow collar - type of stand-up collar, the edges of which turn into wide ribbons that can be tied under the chin in any way. For example, ribbons can be tied in a bow at the very base of the neck, or they can hang down tied in a loose knot. Sometimes it is tied in the form of a tie. In some models, the central part of such a collar is shifted to the side. In this case, the ribbons are tied in a bow on the side. The tapes themselves can be both very narrow and quite wide. The length of these ribbons can also vary. It all depends on the style of a particular women's blouse. IN brought into fashion by Coco Chanel in the 50s of the XX century in the form of a collar of a kind of two-layer scarf, tied with a bow, which gives the image of a woman a romantic look. It is noteworthy that in fashion "ascot" is a method of tying a neckerchief under a shirt and is a specific type of classic men's tie - a men's neckerchief Ascot (escot), also Plastron. It should be noted that female ascots appeared in the 19th century. The mistress of Louis XIV, Louise de La Vallerie, loved to flaunt in such collars with ties. However, at that time they did not become fashionable everywhere and were rather a symbol of bright originality.

False collars, oddly enough, have been relevant for several seasons in a row. Although few people decide to buy them. Why? The answer is banal: not all fashionistas know how and with what to wear such accessories.

What is a patch or detachable collar

The main task of any removable collar is to decorate the décolleté and neck area (it doesn’t matter if it is worn on a coat or a blouse). In fact, this product performs the functions of a "necklace" or "necklace". Also, with the help of a collar, you can create the illusion of a blouse or shirt - it looks elegant and original, when compared, for example, with the same toppings that are the top of the blouse.

Removable collars are bright enough on their own, which means they can be classified as full-fledged jewelry that does not require any additional accessories or accents.

What false collars are

To choose a stylish collar for a dress or coat, it is advisable to know the most popular models, and indeed the width of the range.

It would seem, well, what is there to study? Most likely, the concepts of such products are rather limited. And this is a deep misunderstanding. Designers never cease to amaze the sophisticated public with new and new models of false collars.

So, removable collars are divided into the following types:

• With stand. These products resemble the usual shirt collar for everyone, respectively, and fit to the neck in the same way.
• Overhead turn-down - a very simple form, but a wide field for imagination - you can wear and combine with anything. In addition, the size of such collars is easy to adjust at will.
• Jabot or necklace-shoulders - the width of the products is equal along the entire length, and the style itself is borrowed from the royal outfits of the Byzantine rulers. Usually, as a decoration, a removable collar has a bright "evening" decor.
• With sharp corners. There are pointed forms here, thanks to which the collars seem strict and a little daring. But, at the same time, they visually lengthen the neck, making it more beautiful.
• With rounded corners - products that can only be worn by very young or even young girls.
• With front, back or bow closure. In this case, it is the clasp that performs the main aesthetic functions. "Bows" can be very diverse: white, green, red, blue, etc.
• Multilayer. Due to the layering, the volume of the collar visually increases.
• From beads, chains and beads. These jewelry are very reminiscent of a necklace or necklace. Especially like this one detachable collar lovers of pearls and dresses (a great combination).
• Fur or with feathers. But here you need to be careful - the rich texture of these products requires a competent choice and the rest of the outfit. This, of course, does not apply to the usual fur collars for a coat.
• Knitted and textile. Thanks to the use of textiles, false collars are made in the most bizarre forms: lace collar, vintage items, etc.
• Fully decorated. These are models that have a large number of jewelry. With the advent of a new trend, it is women's collars (both removable and not) that have become a favorite place for such decor: buttons, rhinestones, sequins, embroidery, beads and much more.
• With partial decor on the edge or on the corners. Another popular type of jewelry for false collars, although somewhat "lazy".

Why detachable collar

1. He will add completeness and a certain amount of gloss to any of the dresses. It can be a romantic, elegant, chic, evening, strict or playful false collar.
2. As a rule, many outfits without additional decorations look boring and simple. Using a layered collar will correct the situation.
3. A false collar focuses attention on the face, which means it distracts from other parts of the body that you would like to hide.
4. A model with a high stand in white or black is a full-fledged "tuxedo". Such a collar will instantly turn an ordinary dress into an evening outfit.

What to wear with a false collar

Here, as mentioned earlier, a huge selection. But in order for this stylish accessory looked harmonious, it does not hurt to learn a few rules for its use:

• Wearing such a product with clothes that have their own "native" collar (for example, a coat), provides for the choice of a model that completely covers it.
• Best of all, a false collar is combined with things that are simple in cut and style, without additional, and even more pretentious decor.
• Almost all models are suitable for various neck options: coats or dresses with a high neckline, V-neck, asymmetric, in the form of a drop, boat and heart.
• Collars that are in perfect harmony with the color of the main clothes will also be an excellent solution. And products with sharp corners will look beautiful not only with everyday, but also with strict outfits.
• A detachable stand-up collar is suitable for an evening dress, and just as a regular accessory.
• Model with a lot of decor - the best choice for owners of a thin graceful neck.

Designers advise taking into account the shape of the face when choosing false collars. For example, ladies with round features will suit triangular models, while girls with an oval shape should take a closer look at traditional slightly rounded products and stand-up collars - an ideal choice for a winter coat.

Shoes, bags and other jewelry

To a false collar, as well as to any other outfit, it is important to choose the right shoes. If the product is quite strict (office style, etc.), then it is better to wear low-heeled pumps or women's ankle boots with it. Of course, the design of shoes directly depends on the finish of the collar and the main clothes - it is advisable to complement a simple outfit (coat or blouse) with brighter shoes (not in terms of color) and vice versa.

As for the bag, its models are also determined by the style of the false collar. Too voluminous bags with a lot of decor are not suitable for multi-layered options. The color must be contrasting.

Naturally, in this case, jewelry on the neck is not required to be worn, but it will not hurt to complement the image with such items as silver or gold earrings, a bracelet, etc. Original women's jewelry would be quite appropriate, but not too bright and, moreover, not vintage.

Types of collars for women's coats

Surprisingly, there is still no unified classification of outerwear collars (despite the fact that this detail is already more than 500 years old!) Some divide them by the way they are combined with the neck into set-in and one-piece, others by the type of fastener into open and closed, others are generally perplexed: “How can you combine hundreds of different styles into some groups and classes, where each collar is a small masterpiece of tailoring art? !" The most general "breakdown" is given in the tutorials on cutting and sewing: "Models of outerwear can have standing, stand-turn-down, flat-lying, jacket and fantasy types of collars." Let's stop on it.

1. Stand collars

"Racks" were the first collars to appear on outerwear. Stand-up collars give products a strict, concise look, which is why they are popular in uniforms and office clothes. Due to the high degree of closeness of clothing with this type of collar, it is popular in products for the cold season: jackets, coats, windbreakers.

Today, a stand-up collar is used mainly for sewing outerwear, and its height varies between 2-5 centimeters. The most popular types of racks: "tangerine", "clamp" and "pipe".

"Mandarin" (aka "Chinese" and "Mao")

Already from the name it is clear that this collar came to us from Imperial China, a country with a strict hierarchical ladder and the same strict dress code. "Tangerines" here for a long time officials and civil servants were called, wearing suits with a short, tight-fitting neck, stand-up collar, the edges of which either touch in the middle or run into each other a little.

A coat with such a collar will surely appeal to women who know a lot about the subtle beauty of the East or prefer minimalist clothing. And in men's collections, "Mao" - as a symbol of authoritarianism and power - is most often found on brutal picots, strict uniforms like those of Napoleonic marshals and laconic denim jackets.

"Yoke"

And this is a greeting from the recent Soviet past. Born "collar" from English a knitted sweater, more precisely from its neck (in the USSR, this fashion came in the 60s). At first, he was very reminiscent of his ancestors - he was knitted, soft and tall. Later it began to be sewn from other materials: cashmere, wool, satin.

“Clamp”, as needlewomen and fashion designers affectionately call this type, softens the lines of a classic coat, gives it a touch of charming femininity. In recent years, the collar-collar has increasingly preferred to perform solo, becoming a separate item of women's wardrobe.

"Pipe" and its variety "Funnel"

The same as the "collar", but from a stiffer fabric, without numerous cozy folds and waves.

2. Stand-up turndown

They consist of two parts: a hidden rack and a visible pointed or, conversely, rounded departure.

Despite the variety of stand-up collars (“kent”, “butterfly”, “vario”, “tab”, etc.), only one model is usually used for sewing a coat - “shark”. Its feature is widely spaced (like the mouth of a predator) corners of departure. So wide that they form an obtuse angle. Other types of stand-up collars adorn men's and women's shirts.

3. Flat-lying

Purely female collars, which were brought into fashion ... by a man. The cute king of England Henry III was passionately fond of dressing up. And to put on perfume, wear white stockings and curl your hair. Once, the king considered that the popular "millstones" were very heavy and not elegant enough and ordered to make for himself a camisole with a light lace collar. Well, what the head of state wears, everyone wears. Later, such collars began to be sewn from satin and velvet, for greater beauty they were cleaved with a brooch and tied with a ribbon.

Today, finding outerwear with a flat collar is a great success. Such coat models are beautiful, a little naive, incredibly feminine, but not very practical (weakly cover the neck), so they are supplied to stores in limited quantities.

4. Jackets

These are collars that have switched to outerwear from formal suits, men's jackets and tailcoats.

"English"(more common under the name "classic")

The most popular and perfect type of collar. Strict and elegant like an English aristocrat, he has been out of fashion and time for three centuries in a row, and it is not for nothing that almost all the coats of the President of Russia are decorated with this respectable collar!

East and West are fighting for the right to call it their own. The first claim that such the shape of the collar had national Chinese robes, the latter are sure that Schalke- the invention of the Byzantines, who have long loved to decorate the sides of outerwear with fur. Of these disputes, only one thing is known for sure: in the old days, only a rich and noble person could afford a schalke collar. (The poor preferred more practical styles).

"Apache"

A strongly open rectangular collar, vaguely reminiscent of a guis in shape. In Russia it was popular in the 60s of the last century. In Europe, he has been known for a long time, but is considered the collar of rebellious youth and hooligans - Apaches. These young people from the country of noble wines and intricate streets wore such wide collars to show their independence, a dismissive attitude towards the “noose” tie, because it was simply impossible to wear it with an Apache shirt!

5. Fantasy

This group can safely include everything that was not included in the previous four. Fantasy collars rarely stay afloat for a long time, these are, as a rule, edgy models that are worth buying in two cases:

1) You like to update your wardrobe often and be in trend.

2) You already have a couple of classic coats and lack the original style for a special occasion.

The collar is a very important and expressive detail in the design of clothing. It not only gives the product a finished look, but also visually affects the outlines of the face and chin. the shape and length of the neck. The collar must meet the requirements of fashion. shape and proportions of clothes.

Collars are very diverse in shape. They consist, as a rule, of two parts: visible - departure and invisible - racks, between which there is an inflection line. According to the method of connection with the neckline and the principle of constructing the drawing, collars are divided into two types: collars sewn into the neckline and cut out together with the main part, most often with the front (one-piece). In shape, they are standing (stand height 3.5-4.5 cm), standing-turn-down (stand height 2.5-3.5 cm), semi-standing (stand height about 2 cm), flat-lying (stand height about 0.5 cm ). The collars also differ in the width of the departure, which can vary from 4 to 24 cm.

When constructing a drawing, it must be borne in mind that the straighter the stitching line, the higher the collar stand will be. For each type of face, you can choose your own collar shape. All fluctuations in fashion, as a rule, are accompanied by a change in the forms and types of collars, which are characterized by great diversity. The main factors influencing collar design are:

The method of connecting the collar with the neck of the product (set-in, one-piece, combined);

The shape of the neck line; the degree of fit to the neck (tight, flat-lying, lagging behind the neck);

Fastener type of the product (deaf, open).

When constructing patterns for any collars, the shape of the stitching line into the neck and the height of the stand are of primary importance. The shape of the fly-away collar can be very diverse and depends on the model and the imagination of the author.

The construction of the stand, its dimensions, the configuration of the neck line determine the shape of the collar, the degree of its fit. With a maximum stand height and a straight or convex stitching line into the neck, the collar fits snugly around the neck. With a decrease in the height of the stand and a concave stitching line, the collar lies more hollow. In the absence of a stand, the stitching line coincides with the neck in shape and the collar becomes flat. Collars, as a rule, consist of two parts: an upper collar and a lower one (collar).

According to the method of construction, collars can be divided into three groups:

Set-in to products with a fastener to the top (or to a closed neck); one-piece and set-in for products with an open fastener; set-in and one-piece flat-lying and fancy.

STIT-IN COLLARS TO CLOSED NECK.

Patterns of set-in collars to the neck with a blind fastener are built separately from the pattern of the bodice and the neck of the product. Depending on the configuration of the stitching line, collars can be: stand; standing-turn-down; semi-delayed; apache; flat-lying

Stand-up, turn-down, collars have a lot of varieties and are characterized by the presence of a stand of various heights at the site of stitching into the neck of the back and fading to its ends. In the area corresponding to the neck of the back and the upper third of the neck of the shelf, it is straight or slightly concave, and in the segment of stitching into the rest of the neck it has a convex shape. The amount of curvature (in height along the middle line of the collar) ranges from 1.5 to 4.5 cm. The shape and size of the flying part of the collar and its ends is determined by the model.

1. Stand-up collar to the neckline with a fastener to the top.

middle line - vertical side of the corner.

Stitching line. from point A on the horizontal side of the corner lay a segment equal to the measurement of the half-girth of the neck plus 0.5 cm - the length of the collar and put a point A 1

A A, \u003d POsh + 0.5 \u003d 18 + 0.5 \u003d \u003d 18.5 cm

(The length of the collar can be measured along the neck line from the middle of the back to the middle of the front after trying on the product.) From the point A lay 2 - 4 cm along the middle line and put a point A:

Aa= 2- 4 cm

points A And A 1 A 1 and // draw down a perpendicular, on which 0.2 cm is laid. Points A 1, 0.2, II. 0.5 cm and A connect with a smooth curve.

Flyaway cut. from point A up along the middle line lay 8 - 10 cm - the width of the collar at the back. The same amount is laid on the perpendicular restored upward from the point A, on the segment a A 1 ; point accordingly IN And IN 1 .

aB = A 1 IN 1 = 8-10 cm

points IN And IN 1 connect an auxiliary straight line, which is continued to the right by 3-6 cm (the value of the protrusion of the corner).

From the middle of the segment BB 1 restore upward the perpendicular, on which they lay 1 - 1.5 cm. A smooth curve emerging from the point IN at right angles to the cut AB, connect the dots IN, 1-1.5 cm and 3-6 cm dots A 1 and 3-6 cm are connected under the ruler.

2. Semi-stand collar to a mouth with a fastener up to top.

A,

middle line - vertical side of the corner.

Stitching line. from point A on the horizontal side of the corner lay a segment equal to the measure of the half-girth of the neck, – the length of the collar stitching line, and put a dot A 1 :

AA 1 , = POsh=18 cm

(The length of the collar can be measured from the neckline from the middle of the back to the middle of the front after trying on the product.)

from point A lay 5 7 cm along the middle line and put a dot A:

Aa= 5-7 cm

points A And A 1 connected by an auxiliary straight line, which is then divided into 3 parts. The division points represent / and //. From the point / restore the perpendicular upwards and lay 0.7 cm on it. From the middle of the segment between the points A 1, and // draw down a perpendicular, on which 0.4 cm is laid. Points A, 0.7 cm, //, 0.4 cm and A 1 connect with a smooth curve.

Flyaway cut. from point A up along the middle line lay 8-10 cm - the width of the collar at the back. The same amount is laid on the perpendicular restored upward from the point A 1 to a straight line aa 1 . Dots accordingly. IN And IN 1 .

aB= A 1 IN 1=8-10cm

points IN And IN 1 is connected by an auxiliary straight line, which is continued to the right by 2-4 cm (the value of the protrusion of the corner). From the middle of the segment BB 1 restore upward the perpendicular, on which they lay 2-2.5 cm. A smooth curve emerging from the point IN at right angles to the cut AB, connect the dots IN, 2-2.5 cm and 2-4 cm. Points 2-4 cm and A 1 connected under a line.

3.Collar with one-piece stand.

Build a right angle with a vertex A, the sides of which are directed to the right (horizontally) and up.

middle line- the vertical side of the corner.

Stitching line. from point A on the horizontal side of the corner, lay a segment equal to the measurement of the half-girth of the neck plus 0.5 cm - the length of the collar stitching line and put a dot A 1:

AA 1 \u003d POsh + 0.5 \u003d 18 + 0.5 \u003d 18.5 cm

from point A 1 to the right horizontally set aside 2-2.5 cm - an allowance for half-drift and put a dot A 2:

AA 2=2-2.5cm

from point A set aside along the middle line 2-4 cm and put a dot A:

Ah= 2-4 cm

points A And A 1 connected by an auxiliary straight line, which is then divided into 3 parts. The division points represent / and //. From the point /, the perpendicular is restored upward and 0.5 cm is laid on it. From the middle of the segment between the points A 1 and // draw down a perpendicular, on which they lay 0.2 cm. The edge of the half-skid is raised from the point A 2 by 0.3-0.5 cm. Points 0.3-0.5 cm, A 1 , 0.2 cm, //, 0.5 cm and A connect with a smooth curve.

Rack. From points A 1 , And A 2 up vertically lay 2.5-3.5 cm - the height of the rack and put points accordingly a 1 And a 2:

A 1 A 1 = A 2 a 2=2.5-3.5 cm

The rack ledge can be designed with a rounded curve connecting the points A 1 and 0.3-0.5 cm.

Flyaway cut. from point A up along the middle line lay 7-9 cm - the width of the collar at the back and put a point IN:

aB=7-9 cm

From a point IN A 1 , denoted by the letter IN 1 . line BB 1 continue to the right by 1-4 cm and put a dot AT 2 .

IN 1 IN 2 = 1-4 cm

point AT 2 A 1 ; the line continues up and on it from the point A 1 lay 7-15 cm - the length of the angle; put an end to V:

A 1 in = 7-15 cm

Line segment BB 1 divided into 3 parts and the right division point is connected by a smooth curve with a point V.

4.Collar with detachable stand.

Build a right angle with a vertex A, whose sides are directed to the right (horizontally) and up.

middle line- the vertical side of the corner.

The line for stitching the rack into the neck. from point A to the right lay a segment equal to the measurement of the half-girth of the neck plus 0.5 cm - the length of the collar and put a point A 1 |:

AA 1 \u003d POsh + 0.5 \u003d 18 + 0.5 \u003d 18.5 cm

From a point A 1 restore up the perpendicular, on which they lay 2-4 cm and put a point A 2 :

A 1 A 2 = 2-4 cm

point A connect under a ruler with a dot A 2 , the line is continued to the right by 2-2.5 cm (half-skid allowance) and put a dot A 3 ;

A 2 A 3=2-2.5cm

line AA 2 divide in half. From the division point, the perpendicular is restored down, on which 1 cm is laid. The edge of the half-skid is raised from the point A 3 by 0.5 cm. Dots 0.5 cm, A 2.1 cm and A connect with a smooth curve.

The top section of the stand. from point A set aside along the middle line 3-4 cm-height of the rack and put a dot A:

Aa= 3-4 cm

From points A 2 And A 3 , restore upward perpendiculars to the segment AA 3, on which they lay 2.5-3 cm each, and put points accordingly A 1 and A 2 .

A 2 a 1 = A 3 A 2=2.5-3cm

points A And A 1 are connected by an auxiliary straight line. From its middle, a perpendicular is restored down, on which 1 cm is laid. Points A, 1 cm and A 1 connect with a smooth curve. The protrusion of the rack can be decorated with a rounded line connecting the points A and 0.5 cm.

Collar stitching line make out with the same bend as the top cut of the rack. Build it as follows. from point A 1, draw a horizontal line to the left, which is the axis of symmetry. Its intersection with the midline is denoted by the letter V. from point V up along the midline lay a segment equal to av, and put a point V 1 :

centuries 1 = av

point V 1 connect an auxiliary line to a point A 1 . Line segment A 1 V 1 divide in half and from the division point restore upward the perpendicular, on which 1 cm is laid. Points in 1 , 1 cm and A 1 connect with a smooth curve.

Flyaway cut. from point V 1 up along the middle line lay 4-5 cm - the width of the departure and put a point at 2:

IN 1 V 2 = 4-5 cm

From a point V 1 draw a horizontal line to the right. Its intersection with a vertical line drawn from a point A 1 is denoted by a letter V 3 . line V 2 V 3 continue to the right 1-5 cm and put a dot V 4:

V 3 V 4=1-5cm

point V 4 are connected under a ruler with a dot A 1 The line continues up and on it from the point A 1, set aside 9-14 cm - the length of the angle; put an end to V 5:

A 1 A 5=9-14cm

Line segment V 2 V 3 are divided into 3 parts and the right point of division of the smooth curve is connected to the point V 5 .

5.Cut-off stand-up collar.

Build a right angle with a vertex A, the sides of which are directed to the right (horizontally) and up.

line, middle vertical side of the corner.

Top cut and stitching line. from point A on the horizontal side of the corner lay a segment equal to the measure of the half-girth of the neck plus 0.5 cm - the length of the collar and put a point A 1 ,:

A A 1 \u003d POsh + 0.5 \u003d 18 + 0.5 \u003d 18.5 cm

(The length of the collar can be measured along the neck line from the middle of the back to the middle of the front after trying on the product.

from point A along the middle line lay 3-4 cm - the width of the collar and put a dot IN:

AB= 3-4 cm

From a point IN draw an auxiliary horizontal line to the right, and from the point A 1 up vertical. Their intersection is denoted by the letter IN 1 .

The front edge of the rack can be raised by 1 cm. To do this, from the points A 1 And IN 1 up vertically lay 1 cm. Segments AA 1 and BB 1 are divided into 3 parts and the right division points are connected in pairs with smooth curves with dots of 1 cm. The length of the upper cut at the middle of the front is reduced by 0.5 cm.

The stand-up collar has many options. A set-in stand-up collar in the form of a rectangular strip lags behind the neck somewhat. To build it, you need the length of the neck line and the height of the rack. The line of the top cut is parallel to the stitching line.

If you want to give the collar a funnel shape, the stitching line is bent in the same way in the opposite direction.

The collar pattern also has a rectangular shape, but its height is twice the height of the stand. A collar pattern of this type is usually built with a slightly expanded neck. It is cut out at an angle of 45 ° to the warp threads and double width, i.e. the upper and lower collars are cut from one single piece of fabric, placing the departure line in the fold of the material.

Patterns of collars that turn into a bow or scarf are built in the same way as a collar collar and a rectangular stand, but the height and length of the collar are chosen depending on the model and type of fabric.

Fantasy models of stand-up collars.

What makes clothes more interesting and original? Of course, the details. (ascot collar), which has English roots, is an excellent confirmation of this. Thanks to its great variability, it is able to transform even the most ordinary product. Add zest, femininity and charm to it.

In modern fashion, this collar has firmly established itself in the women's wardrobe. But, like many objects and details, he got there from the male. And today, men's things in the women's wardrobe no longer surprise anyone. Women have long considered them their own entirely.

The history of this collar originates in the English village, 40 km from London, which is called Ascot. The fact is that since the 17th century, the largest horse races in Europe have been held there. Horse races are still held today at the city hippodrome "Ascot Racecourse" once a year at the end of June.

One of the unusual details men's suit, for such events, there was a slanting ribbon of expensive material, tied around the neck. She was decorated beautiful brooches decorated with pearls and stones. Subsequently, this detail turned into a men's neck tie, which was tied around the neck and the ends were hidden under the shirt.

Coco Chanel, known for her love of men's things, adopted a lot of details in women's wardrobe. And the ascot collar was one of them. She turned it into a bow and elegantly tied it around the lady's neck.

In the second half of the last century, fashion designers decided that the ascot collar could be made more variable. Thus, women have another opportunity to diversify their images. During the - - - s, this collar model, one way or another, was present in women's products.

In a modern interpretation, this stand-up collar model is a long strip of fabric sewn to the neck. It is cut either along an oblique or along a shared thread. Its ends can be tied in different ways, depending on their length. Their width can also be different. Thus, at the base of the neck, you can tie a bow, tie or an original knot, in the form of a flower, for example.

The dimensions of this part can vary greatly. Either it is a bow with long and narrow wings, or it is a huge bow that covers almost the entire bodice. In the latter case, he plays an active role and becomes the center of the composition.

The ascot collar fits perfectly into the business style. A blouse with a graceful bow will always make the image more tender and romantic than a shirt buttoned up to the very top. So either a blouse with this collar model is a very good solution for those ladies who want to look feminine at work.

This collar is suitable for blouses, dresses and cardigans. Due to the variability of use, the product in each case will look different. A collar that turns into a tie will give the image a businesslike look and stretch the figure upwards. , on the contrary, will make a woman more elegant.

Designers offer many of the most different ways embedding an ascot collar in the product. I bring to your attention some of them.

As you can see, necklines, collar sizes, ways of tying and combining with other collars please with variety and give unexpected results. There is a great opportunity to choose the option that suits you the most. Even the position of the bow can change and move from a central position to an asymmetric one.

Many of these details remind and it is fully justified. But everything is new, it's a well-forgotten old. If there are moments that can emphasize female attractiveness and add zest and charm to the image, you must definitely use them.

Do you have an ascot collar in your wardrobe?

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Stay attractive and charming always!