A stylish fitted sheath dress should be present in every woman's wardrobe. Depending on the chosen material, this wardrobe detail can become both an attribute of a business wardrobe and a dress for going out.

It is sewn according to the basic pattern of the dress. Building a pattern for the base of a dress is an important step in learning how to design clothes. This process requires care and consistency, so I suggest watching a video on building a pattern for the base of a dress.

Video lesson:

Cutting preparation

Before , how to build a sheath dress pattern, you need to take the measurements you need for work. The necessary measurements with ready-made values ​​are given in the table for the sample. In the "Value" field, enter your own dimensions:

To avoid inaccuracies in taking measurements, I also attach a table of typical measurements that are used in the Italian cutting system. It can be downloaded for free from the link:

(downloads: 138)

The measurement system is no different from the standard rules. The Italian method of construction allows you to achieve an adjacent silhouette of the dress.

Also, for work, you will need a table of increments for free fit, which is given in the photo:

Comment: to build a dress, we need an increase value of 1 degree.

Building a dress pattern

So, the construction of the pattern begins with the setting of point A in the upper left corner of the sheet. Further from this point down we put off the segment calculated by the formula: Size / 24 + 0.2 cm. We put t. V. This distance will be equal to the depth of the neckline on the back.

Then again from t. A we retreat down 4.5 cm and put t. B1.

After that, we find the depth of the armhole and the position of point C, that is, from point A down, you need to set aside a segment equal to Height / 8 + Size / 24.

Next, we find the location of point D - the value of the DTS, which is also set aside down from point A.

Now, from the received t. D, we put down the value of the measure of the WB and get t. E.

We find the last point F by setting aside from t. A a segment equal to the measure of DP.

Now we mark the line of the neck. To do this, from t. A to the right, we draw a segment that is equal to Size / 6. We put t. G.

Again, from t. A to the right, we draw a line on which we mark t.

We turn to t. C. To the right of it we lay off the line on which we find the position of t. C1. Segment CC1 \u003d OG / 4 + 1/4 increase in freedom of fit (PSO).

Now, from point D, we also put aside point D1 to the right, which is located at a distance equal to OT / 4 + 3cm (tuck) + 1/4 PSO.

We find the position of point E1, for this, to the right from point E, we set aside a segment that is equal to the value of OB / 4 + 1/4 PSO.

Point F1 is at the same distance from point F as point E1 from point E, i.e. EE1 = FF1.

We connect the points C1, D1, E1 and F1 with a smooth line. We have the side seam line ready.

Draw a line from T. N down. At the intersection with the segment CC1, point I is obtained. At a distance of 4.5 cm from point H, we put point L on the same line. We connect points L and B1:

We extend line B1L to the right. We find the position of point L1 on it. Distance В1L1 is equal to ШП/2. We connect t. G and t. L1.

From t. I along the line HI we measure 5 cm upwards, 0.3 cm to the right. We get t. M. We draw a smooth line, connecting t. L1, t. M and t. C1. This is the armhole line. From t. L1 along the armhole line, measure down 9cm. We put a notch, which will be a control mark for sewing in a sleeve.

We turn to the design of the tuck. To do this, we find the position of point R by dividing DD1 in half. Draw a perpendicular line from the obtained point up and down. From the place of intersection with CC1 we go down 2 cm and put t. R1. Down from t. R we go down 14 cm and get t. R2. On the line DD1 we set aside the segments RR3=RR4=1.5cm. We connect t. R1, t. R3, t. R2, t. R4 with a straight line.

Back patterns are ready:

We begin the construction of the front half of the dress. Again we put t. A, from which we put down the value Height / 8 + Size / 24. Received T.S. This is the depth of the armhole.

Segment AD is equal to the value of DTS, segment DA1 is equal to the value of RTA.

We get t. B, postponing from t. A1 down the value Size / 6 + 1cm.

We find the position of point G. It is located at a distance equal to Size / 6, to the left of point A1. Draw a bisector from angle GA1B. Find position B1 on the bisector. A1B1 = Size / 6 + 0.5 cm. We draw the line of the neck, connecting t. G, t. B1, t. B.

From t. D along the AD line down, we set aside the value of the WB measurement and set t. E. Next, we find the position of t. F. AF \u003d DP.

We continue the straight line A1G to the left and put t. H. on it. The distance A1H is equal to SS/2 - 1 cm

To the left of point C at a distance that is equal to OG / 4 + 1/4 PSO, we set point C1.

From point D to the left we set aside point D1, which is located at a distance of a segment that is equal to OT / 4 + 3cm (tuck) + 1/4 PSO.

EE1 \u003d OB / 4 + 1/4 PSO

We connect the found points with a smooth line and get the line of the side seam:

Draw a straight line from t. H down. At the intersection with CC1, we put point I. At a distance of 7.5 cm from point H, we put point L.

Draw a straight line from t. L to the left. We find the position of point L1. To do this, on the drawing of the back we measure the segment GL1 and on the drawing of the front from point G we set aside the segment of the same size until it intersects with the line drawn from point L.

The segment A1N is equal to the value of the measure VG. To the left of point N we put point N, which is at a distance of TsG / 2.

On the line GL1 we put t. G1, descending from t. G down to a distance equal to Size / 10 + 0.5 cm.

We draw a perpendicular line to the segment GL1 and put t. G2 at a distance of 1.6 cm from t. G1.

We draw a line between t. G2 and t. N1. Up from t. N1 we retreat 7.5 cm and put t. N2. From this point we draw a perpendicular to the straight line G2N1 with a length of 2 cm.

We measure the length of the segment G2N1 and draw a line of the same length from point N1 so that it passes through the extreme point of the perpendicular. At the end we put t. G3.

In the drawing of the back, we measure the value of the segment GL1 and draw a straight line from point G in the drawing of the front of the same length, while this line must pass through t. G2 and G3. At the end of the line we put t. L2. We erase the line between t. G2 and t. G3.

We find the position of t. M on the segment IН. To do this, we retreat upwards from t. I by 5 cm. T. M1 is located from t. M to the left at a distance of 2 cm.

Now we draw a smooth line between point C1, point M1, point L2. This is the armhole line. From t. L2 we go down 9 cm and put a mark for stitching the sleeve:

We proceed to the construction of the tuck. To do this, we find the position of t. R on the segment DD1. DR = NN1. Draw a straight line from point R up and down. On the line N1R from t. N1 we retreat 2 cm down and put t. R1.

P. R2 is 10cm lower than p. R.

RR3=RR4=1.5cm.

We connect the points R1, R4, R2, R3 and get a tuck.

The pattern is ready.

In my opinion, this is the most understandable way to build a pattern. But it is worth considering that for a different type of figure there are nuances. So, for example, when constructing a pattern for a children's dress, the construction of tucks in the drawing should be excluded. And for women of large sizes, it will be necessary to make other additions to the freedom of fitting. Also a popular technique is the construction of a drawing according to Muller.

Based on the basic pattern of a women's dress, using simple modeling methods, you can achieve dress styles that are completely different from each other.

In this case, it is possible to carry out manipulations with the sleeve of the product. So, for example, from an ordinary sheath dress you can get a fashionable summer dress with a one-piece sleeve:

This dress model is very well suited for overweight women, hiding figure flaws:

Using the skills of building a basic pattern, you can sew a light summer dress for a girl.

Another popular method is to build a pattern according to Zlachevskaya. Using her technique, when constructing a drawing, all the individual features of the figure are taken into account. This method is considered the most accurate, excluding the subsequent fitting of the product.

For beginners, it will be useful to learn the classic method for constructing a basic pattern for a dress and a set-in sleeve. Moving from simple to complex, in the future you can learn how to model products with a raglan sleeve and even outerwear with a lining.

Master class number 16 - part 1.

There are several ways to construct a one-sutural sleeve pattern. But even the most optimal of them, which I taught in modeling and tailoring courses, is not ideal.

Therefore, I decided not only to introduce you to him, but also, based on calculations and baselines, to place on collages photos of the most successful sleeve patterns with ready-made numbers that correspond to 44 - 58 sizes.

These patterns are universal, and after the necessary adjustment of the dimensions of the sleeve width and armhole depth, you can use them for any models of clothing.

For example, this is how a sleeve pattern of size 48 looks like, which corresponds to an arm circumference of 29 - 30 cm, with calculated basic measurements.

You will only need 2 calculation formulas and 3 baselines. But since I know that I want to do everything faster, then on the collages of the article there are practically ready-made patterns of sleeves for 44, 46, 54 - 56 and 58 - 60 sizes. More precisely, for sleeve measurements corresponding to 23 - 24 cm, 26, 34 and 36 cm

These are the real sizes of the most successful sleeves for dresses, blouses and jackets made of cotton, linen, dense viscose and fine wool, other non-stretch fabrics that I use when sewing products for my clients.

How to make a pattern for a one-piece sleeve.

The sleeve height is the main figure when constructing a pattern. But I recommend using not calculated figures, but those given on collages - they have long been tested by practice and obtained as a result of experiments. According to the method that I recommend to you, VO (eye height) is calculated by the formula:

VP (armhole height): 4 and multiply by 3

For example, for a size 46 sleeve, with an arm circumference of 26 cm, the calculation looks like this:

VP \u003d 18.5 cm. Round up to 18.

18: 4 = 4.5 X 3 = 13.5

But in the pattern on the VP collage - the line CB = 15.5 cm. This figure is ideal for the sleeves of models of a semi-adjacent silhouette - dresses, blouses, light jackets.

Other measurements for a single-seam sleeve pattern size 46, with an arm circumference of 25 - 26 cm, are shown in this collage.

To do this, an allowance for a free fit is added to the OR - the girth of the sleeve. How to measure OR correctly - in the article "".

For a dress sleeve pattern, add 7 - 8 cm, for a summer jacket and blouse - 8 - 9 cm. For our example with OP = 26 cm, the sleeve width is 34 cm:

Construction of a pattern.

After calculations, draw the first main line OD, equal to the resulting width, at a distance of 20 - 25 cm from the upper edge of the tracing paper or whatman paper.

The CB line is the center line of the sleeve. Its location depends on your size and the measurement of the OR.

For 44 - 48, it is necessary to divide the distance OD in half (point C1), and move the line 0.5 cm to the right, towards the front half of the pattern.

For size 46:

17 + 0.5 \u003d 17.5 - the width of the back half of the pattern - the distance of the OS. Front width, CD distance, respectively, is 16.5 cm

17 – 0,5 = 16,5

In all the following photos, I indicated the already calculated numbers.

For size 50-54 sleeve patterns, divide the resulting OD width in half and add 1 cm to the value of the back half. An example is sleeve sizes 56 and 58 in the following collages.

For sleeves of very large sizes, the difference between the length of the back and front halves of the sleeve can be 3 - 3.5 cm.

The different lengths of the sleeve halves correspond to the different heights and lengths of the front and back armholes on the base patterns for figures with normal posture.

For stooped figures, this difference can be even greater. And for the so-called "kinked" figures, in which the length of the back to the waist is practically equal to the length of the front to the waist, the length of the armholes and the width of the sleeve halves can be the same.

Therefore, standard patterns from fashion magazines, for example, from the popular Burda magazine, are suitable for someone, while on others, things sewn according to ready-made patterns look skewed. And it is difficult to sew the sleeve correctly, without creases and distortions. Once again, I advise you to take the time and do it.

We continue to build a sleeve pattern.

From the received point C, draw a vertical line OB, equal to the height of the eye.

44 size - (OR = 23 - 24 cm) - 14.5 cm

46 size - (OR = 25 - 26 cm) - 15.5 cm

48 sizes - (OR = 28 - 29 cm) - 16

50 size - (OP = 30 - 31 cm) - 16.5

52 size - (OP = 32 - 33 cm) - 17 - 17.5

54 - 56 sizes - (OP = 33 - 34 cm) - 18 - 18.5

58 - 60 sizes - (OP = 34 - 35 cm) - 20 - 20.5 cm

We draw an eye line.

From point B to the right and left, you need to measure a distance approximately equal to one fourth of the width of the back or front halves. The optimal distances are indicated for each size on the collages.

For size 46, the distance B - B1 = 4.5 cm, and B - B2 - 4 cm

Similar distances must also be measured on the line width of the sleeve OD towards the center line CB:

Distance O - O1 = B - B1

Distance D - D1 = B - B2

In order to draw a beautiful and smooth line around the sleeve, auxiliary lines 1, 2, 3 and 4 are used.

For patterns 44 - 48 sizes, the length of line 1, which forms the depth of the deflection of the front half - 0.8 - 1.2 cm

The length of line 2, which forms the deflection of the rear half - 1.2 - 1.7 cm

Line 3 for sizes 46 - 48, allowing you to draw the upper semicircle of the front half of the sleeve - 0.5 - 0.8 cm

Line length 4, for the back half circle - 0.8 - 1.4 cm

For sleeves 54 - 56 in size, the front line can run along the main line B2 - D1.

After all the points are marked on the pattern diagram and the main lines, draw the final smooth line of the circle.

Sleeve pattern size 44.

Sleeve pattern 54 - 56 sizes.

Sleeve pattern 58 - 60 sizes.

Clarifications.

The increase in free fit to the measure of the girth of the sleeve is a relative figure. For example, the width of the short sleeves of this stylish white cotton tunic dress is approximately the same as the width of a feminine blouse with chiffon sleeves. But they look different - chiffon gently hides the overall volume, as well as narrow cuffs. For these sleeves, an increase of 8 - 9 cm was used.

The sleeve of the red blazer is noticeably narrower, although the sizes of these models are the same. The increase is no more than 8 cm. For the same basic size 44 - 46, sleeve patterns of different widths were used.

Sleeves for models made of stretch fabric.

Any pattern in the modern sewing industry is now being developed using computer programs and technologies. And we have no opportunity to experiment with volumes.

If you have a proportional figure that corresponds to the standard measurements indicated in the table of measurements of the magazine with patterns, then you are in luck - now you can find patterns for models from elastic fabrics.

If you make a pattern yourself, for example, for a dress made of stretch viscose, you will have to evenly and gradually, proportionally reduce the volume of the front and back - the photo in this collage.

The sleeve pattern that you made for yourself also decreases.

For example, in such cases, I spend 2 - 3 fittings instead of the traditional one.

For example, compare these 2 patterns for size 46 - I specially photographed them together.

The width of the "stretch" sleeve is 30 cm, and the usual, for non-elastic fabrics - 34 cm. The armholes are also different. The more elastic and thinner the fabric, the shorter the armhole and the shorter its length at the level of the armpit. The exact dimensions of the armholes are in the article recommended above on the correction of the armholes of the base pattern.

But for the dress placed on the left of this collage, the sleeve width is even smaller - about 25 - 27 cm.

Therefore, the base pattern for each dress made of stretch fabric, and the sleeve pattern, is always built anew, taking into account the model and the degree of elasticity of the fabric. And it is brought to the optimal size gradually, taking into account the features of the figure.

In order to reduce any of the patterns, it is enough to draw a second contour along the okon line by 0.2 - 0.3 cm. Along the side seams - by 0.5 - 0.7 cm, depending on the model of the product.

In order to make the sleeve wider along the OD line, it is enough to add 0.5 - 1 cm without changing the height and width of the rim.

Depending on the style, you can leave the side lines (the seam line) straight, narrow evenly on both sides, or, conversely, widen, giving the shape of a trapezoid.

Hardworking - a bright light burns through life, lazy - a dim candle

Building a base pattern - THE MOST CLEAR WAY (for beginners)

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Good afternoon I would even say a beautiful day. Because we are finally starting a series of articles on tailoring for adults. We have already sewed a lot of things for little girls - both dresses and bodysuits are different - now we will sew for big girls. That is, for yourself. And since we have already practiced sewing, the fear of the pioneer has passed.

SO IT'S TIME TO TAKE A NEW FRONTIER. And by ourselves, with our own hands and our brains, master the wisdom of sewing according to real adult patterns. We will draw the base pattern ourselves - in a new easy way (I spent more than one week to create this lightweight method for constructing a base pattern). And then we will sew a bunch of all sorts of dresses, tops and tunics.

No- I will not give you a single ready-made pattern!

I am not Madame Burda. I am Madame Klishevskaya.))) And the main harmfulness of my character lies in the fact ... That I will make your head work and give birth to bright and clear discoveries in the field of sewing. The easiest and most understandable of all arts. Trust me, it is.

Yes- sewing by yourself is very easy and simple!

Right from scratch, you will get more and more beautiful and well-tailored things.

Moreover, you will do everything yourself, without a state of hypnosis, but in a sober mind and bright memory. YOU will DO it - moreover, you will UNDERSTAND what exactly you are doing.

I will reveal to you the secrets that I know. Moreover, I will teach you to discover more and more secrets of the world of sewing and modeling clothes yourself.

I will not lead you (blind and stupid) by the hand in the chaos of letters and numbers indicating the intricacies of the numerous lines of the pattern drawing. NO, I WON'T TAKE YOU HERE:

Well, you must admit, one such picture can catch fear and make a girl doubt her own abilities, who really wants to make a dress- But I was not very friendly in my school years with geometry and drawing. Even I - who loves both of these school subjects - beat around the bush for several years - not daring to start delving into the construction of such a drawing: “How long does it take to draw this, and you need to calculate everything correctly and not get confused in the letters ... ".

And, nevertheless, today we will draw a pattern.

We will draw a base pattern (you can see a piece of it from above.))))

But - do not rush to get scared - we will create our pattern a little differently. Away from the engineering and design method - and closer to human understanding.

We will draw one with you - only one and only- pattern.

And then from it we will create more and more new models of dresses. And it will be very easy and simple.

• No obscure formulas
• No messy calculations.
• And without the letter-number cobweb.

Well, how? Have I removed a bit of your concerns?

I now relax - we will not start drawing right now. To begin with, we will take a pleasant walk through the pattern. The purpose of the walk is to get acquainted, make friends with the pattern and remove the last doubt that you can sew any dress.

So ... what is a pattern - the basis?

To put it figuratively, it is a cast from your body. This is your personal imprint. Any thing sewn according to YOUR base pattern will fit perfectly on YOUR figure.

Yes, you heard right - ANY THING can be sewn on the basis one single pattern. All-all models of dresses - are born, modeled, and sewn from one source - this is a base pattern.

I will now prove to you with an example. Even on three examples - in the form of photos and pictures.

Here is the first photo (below). Our base pattern is, in fact, your sheath dress (the one that fits perfectly on the figure). Dress made according to your pattern based, will repeat all the bends your his body. This simple sheath dress is sewn according to the usual pattern-base. You see, it's like a plaster cast of a girl's figure.

And today, having drawn a base pattern, you can safely cut on the fabric - and you will get such a dress. The only thing you can change the neckline is by giving it the shape that suits your face shape.

All other (any, any) dress models are just a modification of a sheath dress - fantasies on a free topic.

That's how it works in the fashion world.

One day the fashion designer thought...“But what if the bodice of the dress at the top is held on the shoulders by a round yoke (yellow outlines - fig. below), and the bodice itself is made in the form of overlapping opposite triangles (red outlines - fig. below). The result is what we see in the photo below.

Beautiful? Beautiful! What did the fashion designer base his fantasies on? On a base pattern. And you can come up with something of your own. We - women - just a lot of fantasy.

By the way - since we are talking about a round yoke here - this site already has one of my articles on creating and

And another fashion designer thought: “But what if you give the sheath dress a looser cut - make it wider. And make the line of the shoulder longer so that it hangs on the arm. And as a result, a new model is born (photo below) - also very beautiful. And very simple.

You can do that too. If you will UNDERSTAND what the base pattern consists of. And by what laws does it exist.

That is why I don't want to stupidly give you instructions on creating a base pattern (such as “draw a line from point P6 to point P5 and mark the place where it intersects with line X with the next point ...” - ugh!).

I want to wake up in you chuechka. I want you to feel the pattern, to know its soul. And learned to see what a simple drawing hides behind a photograph of any, even intricately tailored, dress.

Therefore, for the next 30 minutes we will not draw anything - we will walk along the pattern itself. Let's get acquainted with all its elements - find out what each line is for, and why it is located exactly here and drawn that way.

After such a "cognitive walk" you will feel the joyful clarity of understanding of everything-everything-everything. It's as if you've already drawn basic patterns many times. And take up the drawing with the feeling that this is a couple of trifles. Ha! Delov something!

As the wise man said: “We are afraid only of what we cannot understand and explain logically. But as soon as the thing that frightens us becomes clear to us, it ceases to cause fear in us.

So let's go and tame this "terrible beast" - a base pattern. Tame and draw in 20 minutes. Yes, yes, in 20 minutes - because after a walk - the pattern drawing will seem to you an old and well-known simple pattern - like a grid for playing tic-tac-toe.

Where does the base pattern come from?

So where does the base pattern come from - usually it is obtained from such a drawing:

The drawing contains half of the back part + half of the front part.

We will also draw a similar drawing with you - only more simply and clearly.

And what are these halves for, and where to apply them - now I will clearly show everything.

Here (!) I dug up a wonderful sample - below - in the photograph of a black and white dress, our halves are very clearly visible - both half of the back and half of the front. So to speak - clearly and clearly.

Yes, in the Potnovsky language, the halves are called “shelves”. Today we will draw these very shelves of the front and back. But first, let's take a closer look at what elements each shelf consists of. And most importantly, I will tell you what each element is for, what it serves.

To make everything as clear as possible, I will illustrate each of the elements both in pictures and in photographs of real models of dresses.

First, let's get acquainted with two obscure words: TRUCK And ARMHOLE.

Of course, you may know them. Or maybe not. My job is to introduce you.

So, get acquainted - PROYMA

When drawing a base pattern, you will create exactly that bend and size an armhole that fits you—when the armhole doesn't pull or dig into your arm.

That is, the pattern base contains acceptable minimum armhole size. You can model the armhole to your taste, any configuration. But your fantasy armhole should not be less than on the base pattern. That is, an armhole on a pattern basis - These are the limits beyond which your imagination should not intercede.

Your model armhole can be arbitrarily larger - but it cannot be smaller than on the base pattern. More - yes, less - no - otherwise it will dig into the armpit. Here is a rule in modeling designer armholes.

Now let's get acquainted with the tucks.

BACK PATCHES - shoulder darts + waist darts

Here in the picture above, I wrote everything about the back darts - and in the photo of the dress you can find 2 waist darts - one to the right of the zipper, the other to the left of the zipper.

But you don’t see the shoulder tuck on this dress. And on many dresses, too, it is not. Because for convenience and beauty, this tuck is transferred from the middle of the shoulder to the zipper (or along the edge of the armhole, where the sleeve will be, a corner is simply cut off). That is, the excess fabric is not pinched at the middle of the shoulder and is not sewn inside the tuck. And the extra fabric cut off in a corner at the edge of the shelf, where the zipper is sewn in, or at the edge of the armhole - where the sleeve will be sewn in.

Also, darts are optional if you sew from stretch fabric - it itself repeats the curves of your body and shrinks both in the shoulder area and in the waist area.

Next, let's get to know… HALF FRONT darts

Oh, you could write a whole poem about her.

I thought for a long time how to explain it more clearly - what it is for and what laws it lives by. I thought and thought ... and came up with.

The fact is that a woman has breasts.))) That is, the front of an adult girl is no longer flat. This means that the dress in the chest area should be convex. The tuck on the shoulder of the front gives the dress this very bulge in the chest area. Now I will show everything in pictures. How does this happen.

For example, we have a flat piece of fabric, but we need to make a convex piece out of it. To do this, you need to make a tuck on it. For example - this flat circle of cardboard, with the help of a tuck, will now become convex.

And here is how the chest tuck creates a bulge on the front detail

You noticed that the top of the bulge (that is, the peak of our round pyramid) is at the point of the tuck. Pay attention to this. Because when we draw a tuck for the chest, the tip of our tuck will be at the top of the chest(where the nipple or dome of the bra is usually located).

Remember that sometimes you measured a dress in your size in a store, which somehow strangely warped on your chest - this is because the tuck in the dress was directed with its tip past top of your chest. Here the chest did not fit perfectly into the bulge of the dress. Not under your breast shape, this product was cut at the factory.

But that is not all, what I want to say about the chest tuck.

The fact is that in almost all dresses this chest tuck is located not on the shoulder- A on the side just below the armpit. It's made for beauty. The tuck on the shoulder is more conspicuous, but on the side, and even covered by the hand, it is not noticeable.

When creating a base pattern, we draw a chest tuck on the shoulder only because it is more convenient to draw it there from the point of view of building a drawing.

And after the drawing of the base pattern is ready, we very easily and simply transfer the tuck from the shoulder area to the axillary area. Do not think that for this you need to make new drawings. Nope, everything is simple here - how to open a carton of milk - one minute and that's it.

Here, in the picture below, I schematically depicted transfer of the chest tuck from the shoulder to the side seam at hand.

Well, do you already feel how you have grown wiser in these 15 minutes?))) Whether there will be more ... We continue our walk along the pattern and now we will get acquainted with the lines. horizontal lines

CHEST LINE

The first acquaintance is the line of the chest. (A beautiful dress, isn't it? We'll sew it with you. Don't even hesitate)

The chest line is the most wonderful line on the pattern. It is so convenient to navigate it when drawing a base pattern, because:

• We know that we finish drawing the waist tuck of the back on the chest line.
• We know that we finish drawing the waist tuck before reaching 4 cm to the chest line.
• We know that the shoulder tuck is the front - we finish drawing on the chest line.
• We know that the lower edges of the armholes also run along the chest line.

Well, no, of course, you don't know that yet. I will give all these simple rules when we start drawing. And for now, I just want you to know that when drawing many elements of the pattern, you can simply focus on the line of the chest (and there is no need to painstakingly put down these alphanumeric dots).

As you can see, there are a lot!! Therefore, go ahead - learn, sew and enjoy life)))

AND WHAT SHOULD I DO NEXT - WITH THE PATTERN BASIS? - you ask

And we will begin to sew according to the pattern-base of TOPS. Namely tops, T-shirts, tunics and then dresses.

You ask: "Hey, why not just dresses?". I give the answer to this question already in the first article of the cycle, so to be continued)))

Good luck with your sewing!

The construction of a base pattern is an important stage in the creation of clothes; it is on its basis that the product is modeled (making it unique). There are various cutting systems and different methods for constructing basic patterns, professionals can use several of them when creating clothes.

In this article, I SHARE MY EXPERIENCE in constructing a pattern for the base of a dress with a straight silhouette on a conditionally standard figure according to the cut system “M. Muller and Son”, this system has stood the test of time and is still popular.

The construction of a dress pattern with a straight silhouette is relatively simple, because. due to the absence of traveling tucks, its construction requires less calculations compared to dress patterns of adjacent silhouettes.

(P, cm),

straight silhouette (with sleeves):

To the height of the armhole at the back (Vpr.z) + 2÷3;

To the width of the back (Ws) + 1.5÷2;

To the width of the armhole (Wpr) + 2.5÷3.5;

To chest width (Wg) + 1.5÷2

(cm), removed from the human figure:

- Chest girth (Og) = 85,

- Waist circumference (From) = 62,

- Hip circumference (Ob) \u003d 95,

- Length of the back to the waist (Dts) = 44,

- Product length (Di) = 100,

- Chest height I (BgI) = 34,

– Waist length in front I (ДтпI) = 56

Estimated measurements (cm),

with Og more than 80 cm:

- Armhole height at the back (Vpr.z) * \u003d Og / 10 + 10.5 \u003d 85/10 + 10.5 \u003d 19,

Vpr.z + P = 19 + 2÷3 = 19 + 2 = 21;

- Hip height (Wb) \u003d Vpr.z + Dts \u003d 19 + 44 \u003d 63;

- Neck width at the back (Wsh.z) \u003d Og / 20 + 2 \u003d 85/20 + 2 \u003d 6.3;

- Breast height II (ВгII) = ВгI - Шш.з = 34 - 6.3 = 27.7;

- Waist length in front II (DtpII) \u003d DtpI - Shsh.z \u003d 56 - 6.3 \u003d 49.7;

- Back width (Ws) * \u003d Og / 8 +5.5 \u003d 85/8 +5.5 \u003d 16, 125,

Shs + P \u003d 16.125 + 1.5 ÷ 2 \u003d 18;

- Armhole width (Wpr) * \u003d Og / 8 - 1.5 \u003d 85/8 - 1.5 \u003d 9.125,

Shpr + P \u003d 9.125 + 2.5 ÷ 3.5 \u003d 12;

- Chest width (Whg) * \u003d Og / 4 - 4 \u003d 85/4 - 4 \u003d 17.25,

Shg + P \u003d 17.25 + 1.5 ÷ 2 \u003d 19

*measurements that are taken during construction with allowances for freedom of fit (P)

CONTROL:[(Vpr.z+P) + (Shs+P) + (Spr+P) + (Sg+P)] should be equal to [Og/2+P] = [Og/2 + 5÷7.5]

Building a drawing of a basic pattern of a dress with a straight silhouette:

Prepare a rectangle of tracing paper, width Og / 2 + 30cm, length Di + 15cm.

1. Base grid. In the upper right corner, stepping back from the top 10 cm, and from the edge 5 cm, put a point O. Draw a vertical line down.

From point O down the line, set aside OG \u003d Vpr.z + P \u003d 21cm; OT=Dts=44cm; OB=Wb=63cm; OH=Di=100cm.

From the points obtained, build horizontal lines to the left: O - top line, G - chest line, T - waist line, B - hip line, H - bottom line.

1. Back center line. Set aside 2 cm from point B to the left, mark point B1. From point through point B1, draw a straight line to the bottom line. Mark its intersection with horizontal lines with dots, as in the drawing.

chest line. From the point G1 to the left, set aside G1G2 \u003d Ws + P \u003d 18cm; then alternately put aside to the left: G2G3 \u003d 2/3 * (Shpr + P) \u003d 8cm; Г3Г4=10÷13cm; G4G5=1/3*(Spr+P)=4cm; G5G6=Wg+P=19cm.

CONTROL: G6G4 + G3G1 \u003d (Og / 2 + P) \u003d 49 cm.

The line of the middle of the shelf. From the marked points, build verticals, as in the drawing. The vertical passing through the point G6 is the line of the middle of the shelf.

At the intersection of lines built from points O and G2, mark point O1.

1. Back neckline. From point O to the left, set aside OO2 = Shsh.z = 6.3 cm. With a large value of Og OO2, you should take = Shsh.z-0.5cm. From the point O2 upwards, build a perpendicular 2 cm long, mark the point O3. Connect points O and O3 along the pattern with a smooth line.

Back shoulder line. From point O1 down, set aside O1O4 = 1 ÷ 1.5 cm. Draw a straight line from point O3 through point O4. From the point O4 to the left along the line, set aside O4O5 \u003d 1.5 ÷ 2 cm (with a small size); 0÷1cm (for large size); 1 ÷ 1.5 cm (with an average size).

1. Back opening. Divide the segment G2O4 in half, mark the point P1, draw a horizontal line through P1 (line of the shoulder blades), set aside P1P1 '= 1cm to the left. Divide the segment P1G2 in half, mark the point P2. Construct a perpendicular to the left, mark point P4 at its intersection with the vertical from point G5, set aside P2P3 = 1.3 ÷ 1.5 cm to the left of P2 (the smaller the size, the smaller the value). From point O5 through P1'P3 to point G3, build an armhole line, smooth along the pattern, so that its beginning is perpendicular to the shoulder line.

1. On the waistline, mark the points T1 and T2, as shown in the drawing. On the chest line, from the point G6 to the right, we postpone G6G7 \u003d Og / 10 + 0.5 \u003d 9 cm. We draw a vertical line, at its intersection with the waist line, mark the point T4. On the vertical from the point T4 upwards we set aside T4O7 \u003d DshpII \u003d 49.7 cm. From the point O7 vertically down, we lay aside O7G8 \u003d VgII \u003d 27.7 cm.

From the point G5 vertically upwards we set aside G5O6 \u003d G2O4-(1 ÷ 1.5) (we look at the figure, the greater the slope of the shoulder line, the greater the value must be subtracted).

1. From points G8 and G5, through points O7 and O6 we draw arcs with radii G8O7 and G5O6, respectively.

From the point O6 along the arc to the right, we set aside O6O8 \u003d Og / 20- (0.5 ÷ 1) \u003d 3.25 cm. From the point O8 we draw an arc with a radius = O3O5-1 = 14 cm, where 1 cm is climbed for landing, this is the difference between the lengths of the back and front shoulder lines. At the intersection of the arcs, mark the point O9.

Armhole shelves. We connect the points O8 and P4 with a straight line, divide the segment in half, mark the point P5. From the point P5 to the left we build a perpendicular with a length = 1 cm, mark the point P6. From point O8 to point G4 through P6 and P4 we draw a smooth line along the pattern, do not forget that it starts perpendicular to the line of the shoulder.

1. Shelf neck. From the point O7 we build a perpendicular to the line of the middle of the shelf, mark the point O10. From the point O10 along the perpendicular to the right, we set aside O10O11 \u003d Shsh.z \u003d 6.3. At large values ​​of Og, O10O11 = Wsh.z-0.5. From the point O10 vertically down, we set aside O10O12 = Shsh.z + 1 ÷ 2 = 7.5 cm. We connect the points O10 and G5 with a straight line, mark O10O13 \u003d Shsh.z + 0.5 ÷ 0.8 cm. Through the points O12O13O11 we draw a smooth line along the pattern.

1. Shoulder shelf and tuck. From the point O9 we set aside O9O14 \u003d O11O7 \u003d 3cm. We connect O14 and G8 - this is the right side of the tuck. From the point G8 vertically upwards, we postpone G8O15 \u003d G8O14. We connect O11 and O15 with a straight line.

1. Place of tuck on the back. From the point O3 along the line of the back shoulder to the left, we set aside O3O16 = 3 ÷ 5 cm. We draw a perpendicular to the horizontal of the shoulder blades, mark point L at the intersection. With the bulge of the shoulder blades and stoop, the dotted lines are cut and moved apart, as a result of which a tuck is formed, the back lengthens. I don't cut because my pattern is for a figure with a flat back.

1. Control signs for stitching sleeves. On the back, Kc coincides with point P3. On the shelf from the point G5 vertically upwards, lay G5Kp = (Spr + P) / 4 = 3 cm.

Side lines. Along the waistline from the point T2 to the left we set aside T2T5=1÷2cm, from the point T3 to the right we set aside T3T6=0.5÷1cm. From points G4 and G3 we draw straight lines through points T6 and T5 to the bottom line. At the intersection with the line of the hips, we mark points B2 and B3. The intersection of the line of the hips with the middle line of the shelf - point B4.

CONTROL:(B4B3+B2B1) should be more (R/2+3cm). Otherwise, you need to increase the expansion of the front and back along the side lines.

1. Bottom line. From point H1 we build a perpendicular to the line of the middle of the back, its intersection with the line of the side of the back is denoted by point H2, from point H2 we draw a horizontal line to the left until it intersects with the side line of the shelf, we mark point H3. We build the line of the bottom of the shelf: a curved smooth line passing from point H3 to a perpendicular to the line of the middle of the shelf.

Offset shoulder line. We raise the line of the back shoulder in parallel by 1 cm. We lower the line of the shoulder of the shelf in parallel by 1 cm.

This is how the pattern looks like the basis of a dress with a straight silhouette, built according to the cut system “M. Muller and Son”.

To check its fit on the figure, it is necessary to transfer the pattern to a simple fabric, sew and try on, more about this in the article.

Half-girths (measurements of girths we divide in half and get half-girths):

Rice. 1

Ssh - neck half circumference
SG1 - chest half circumference first
SG2 - half chest circumference of the second
SG3 - chest half circumference third
St - half waist
Sat - semi-circumference of the hips

Lengths:

Rice. 2

Di - product length
Dp - shoulder length
DTS - back length to waist
Dtp - length of the shelf to the waist

Rice. 3

Widths:

Шп - shoulder width
Wh - chest width
Шс - back width

Rice. 4

Heights:

Vpkg - shoulder height oblique chest

Rice. 5

Vpks - shoulder height oblique back

Rice. 6

Vg - chest height

We take measurements from the figure according to figures 1−4. When taking measurements of chest, waist, and hips, you need to pay special attention to the fact that the centimeter tape should be located strictly horizontally in the narrowest / widest place (depending on the measurement). When removing the girths, it is not necessary to stretch the tape, as this may lead to a narrowing of the product. The most difficult task at this stage is to correctly measure the height of the back and front, as well as determine the projected line of the shoulder seam.

Flexibility gains

The increase depends on the type of fabric, its elasticity, as well as the desired freedom of the product, and this must be taken into account when building. For example, we will take the average values. And also you need to take into account that we use the increase to build half of the product.

For an example of building a dress, we will take a size 48 (this is a size of 96.0 cm across the chest) for a height of 164.

Measurements:

W=18.5 cm
Cr1 \u003d 45.9 cm
Cr2 = 50.4 cm
Cr3 = 48.0 cm
St = 38.0 cm
Sat =52.0 cm
Di = 90.0 cm
Dts = 42.9 cm
Dtp = 44.4 cm
W = 13.3 cm
W = 17.3 cm
W = 18.3 cm
Wpx =43.2 cm
Vprz = 21.5 cm
Vg = 27.5 cm

Additions:

Pg = 6.0 cm
Fri = 3.0 cm
Pb = 2.5 cm
Pshs = 0.8 cm
Pshp 0.3 cm
Psh pr \u003d 4.9 cm
Pdts = 0.5 cm
Pdtp = 1.0 cm
Pshgor = 1.0 cm
Psp = 2.0 cm

Calculation for building a grid:

Grid width (A0a1) = Cr3 + Pg \u003d 48.0 + 6.0 \u003d 54.0 cm
Back width (A0a) \u003d Ws + Pshs \u003d 18.3 + 0.8 \u003d 19.1 cm
Shelf width (a1a2) \u003d Wg + (Sg2-Sg1) + Pshp \u003d 17.3 + (50.4−45.9) + 0.3 \u003d 22.1 cm
Armhole width (aa2) \u003d Shpr \u003d Shset-(Wsp + Shpol) \u003d 54.0-(19.1 + 22.1) \u003d 12.8 cm
Armhole depth (A0G) \u003d Vprz + Pspr 0.5 * Pdts \u003d 21.5 + 2.0 + 0.5 * 0.5 \u003d 23.8 cm
The position of the waist line (A0T) \u003d Dts + Pdts \u003d 42.9 + 0.5 cm \u003d 43.4 cm
The position of the hip line (A0B) \u003d Dts / 2-2 \u003d 42.9 / 2-2 \u003d 19.5 cm
The position of the bottom line of the product (A "H1) \u003d Di + Dts \u003d 90.0 + 0.5 cm \u003d 90.5 cm (the length of the back should be postponed after constructing the neck of the back), but at this stage we will postpone the length of the product from point A1.

Mesh building

Step 1

Rice. 7

We take point A0 as the first point of construction and from it we set aside the width of the grid to the right - 54.0 cm, draw a line and put point a1 at the end of the segment.

To the right of the point A0 on the line A0a1 we set aside the width of the backrest, we get point a.

To the left of the point a1 on the line A0a1 we set aside the width of the shelf and get the point a2.
The segment aa2 is the width of the armhole.

Down from point A0, we set aside the height of the grid and set the point H at the end of the segment - the length of the product. Corresponds to the bottom line of the product (at this stage).

From point A0 downwards, we postpone the position of the chest line on the line A0G and get point G.
Also from the point A0 on the segment A0G lays the position of the waist line and we get the point T.
And we postpone the position of the line of the hips from the point T on the segment A0G and get point B.

From point a1 down, we also set aside the height of the grid and get point H3. We close the rectangle.

From points G, T and B we draw horizontal lines and get points G3, T3 and B3 at the intersection with the line a1H3.
In turn, from points, a and a2, we lower the vertical to the chest line GG3 and get points G1 and G4.
The first and important step in building the mesh should look like the one shown in Fig. 7.

Building a drawing of the back

Step 2

Rice. 8

From point A0 we set aside to the left on the line 0.5 cm - this is the withdrawal of the center of the back at the top. We get point A0".

From point A0 "down along the line A0H we set aside the level of the shoulder blades, which is 0.4 * Dts \u003d 0.4 * 42.9 \u003d 17.2 cm and get point U. We connect point U with point A0" with a temporary line.

We build the depth of the neck of the back A0 "A \u003d A2A1 \u003d 7.2 / 3 \u003d 2.4 down from the point A0" on the line A0 "U. We complete the rectangle and draw up the neckline of the back of the curved curve.
This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. 8.

Step 3

Rice. 9

From the point T to the left on the waist line TT3, we postpone the withdrawal along the waist line = 1.5 cm, for semi-adjacent products. We get point T1.

To build the middle seam of the back, we set aside from the point H to the right a tap equal to the tap along the waist line 1.5 cm and get the point H1. We carry out the middle seam of the back through the points A-U-T1-H1.

From the neck of the back along the middle seam, we lay the length of the back down and get the H point (correct length).

This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. 9.

Step 4

Rice. 10

We build the end point of the shoulder, for this we build a radius from point A2 equal to Shp + tuck opening \u003d 13.3 + 2.0 \u003d 15.3 cm, where the tuck opening is 2.0 cm. And also the second radius from point T1 equal to Vpk + Pvpk, where Ppvk \u003d Pdts + Ppn (increase on the shoulder pad, in this case \u003d 0), and we get 43.2 + 0.5 \u003d 43.7 cm.

At the intersection of the radii from points A2 and T1, we set the point P1.

This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. 10.

Step 5

Rice. eleven

Let's start building a shoulder tuck by determining the position of the tuck along the shoulder seam. The tuck should be located 1/3 - ¼ of the shoulder width: 1/3 * 13.3 - ¼ + 13.3 \u003d 4.4 - 3.3, take a value of 4.0 cm.

We took the tuck solution when constructing the shoulder seam = 2.0 cm. We set aside point I1 on the shoulder from point A2 and point I2 in increments of 2.0 cm. Further, from points I1 and I2 we draw with a radius equal to 7.0 cm and we get point I. We connect points I and I1 and I2. To align the shoulder seam, it is necessary to raise the sides of the darts from the shoulder seam by 0.2 cm.

We connect the sides of the darts with the points of the neckline A2 and the end of the shoulder seam P2. From point P2 to the vertical a1G1 we draw a perpendicular, we will need it to calculate the auxiliary lines of the armhole.

This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. eleven.

Step 6

Rice. 12

We build auxiliary points of the armhole based on the length of the P1G1 line - the length of this section is 18.9 cm. To build the point P3 = 18.9 / 3 + 2.0 cm = 8.3 cm. segment G1a1.

From the corner G1 of the armhole we draw a bisector with a length = Shpr * 0.2 + 0.5 cm = 12.8 * 0.2 + 0.5 = 3.1 cm.

The auxiliary point G2 is located in the middle of the width of the armhole, i.e. Spr / 2 = 12.8 / 2 = 6.4 cm.

This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. 12.

Step 7

Rice. 13

The armhole line of the back is drawn with a smooth line, while the P2 point should have a right angle.

This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. 13.

Building a drawing of a shelf

Step 8

Fig.14

To build the point of the center of the chest, the distance G3G4 / 2 - 1.0 = 22.½ - 1.0 = 10.1 cm is set aside from the point G3 to the right and we get the point G6.

For products of the dress group, we draw up the descent of the waist line = 0.5 cm, for this we set aside 0.5 cm from point T3 down and get point T31. From this point we draw a horizontal line to the left with a length equal to the width of Г3Г6.

To build the width of the neck of the shelf Ssh / 3 + Pshgor \u003d 18.5 / 3 + 1.0 \u003d 7.2 cm, set aside from point A3 to the left on the horizontal and get point A4. We calculate the depth of the neck according to the formula A3A4 +1.0 = 8.2 cm and draw a radius from points A4 on the vertical A3T3 and get the neck point A5. In turn, from points A5 and A4 with a radius equal to the depth of the neck, we make serifs and get an auxiliary point A3 "from which we draw the arc of the neck of the shelf.

This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. 14.

Step 9

Fig.15

The position of the highest point of the mammary glands is set aside from point A4 with a radius equal to Bg \u003d 27.5 cm and we get point G7.

At the intersection of two arcs with the radius of the height of the chest from point G7 and the radius of the opening of the tuck from point A4, we find point A9.

We connect points A9 and A4 with point G7 and get the chest tuck of the shelf.

This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. 15.

Step 10

Rice. 16

To determine the auxiliary points, it is necessary to calculate the position of the point P4 on the segment a2G4. For this, the distance P1G1 (from the drawing) - 1.0 cm \u003d 18.9 - 1.0 \u003d 17.9 cm, we get the distance P4G4. Further, this distance G4P4 / 3 = 6.0 cm and postpone this distance from the point G4 up and get the point P6.

Point P5 is obtained at the intersection of the arcs from point A9 - shoulder width = 13.3 cm and from point P6 equal to the distance P6P4 = 11.9 cm.

We draw the line of the shoulder through the points A9P5.

This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. 16.

Step 11

Fig.17

To build the armhole of the shelf, we draw an auxiliary line, in the middle of which we set a perpendicular 1.0 cm long.

From the angle G4 to build an armhole, we draw the bisector Spr * 0.2 = 12.8 * 0.2 = 2.6 cm.

Through the points P5 - P6 - G2 and the constructed perpendiculars we draw the line of the armhole of the shelf.

This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. 17.

Building sidelines

Step 12

Rice. 18

The construction of the side lines along the line of the chest will start from the point G4 - this is the middle of the armhole. From the point G4 we draw a vertical down, this is the center line of the side seam.

At the intersection with the line of the waist, hips and bottom, we get points T2-B2-H2, respectively.

To design the side seam, take 0.4 * R-p vyt tal \u003d 0.4 * 11.5 \u003d 4.6 and divide this amount by two, since this is a complete solution of the tuck in the side seam. To do this, 4.6 / 2 \u003d 2.3 cm and set aside in each direction from the T2 point. And we get points T21 and T22.

Next, we calculate the expansion along the hips, for this (Sb + Pb) - B1B3 \u003d (52 + 2.5) - 52.5 \u003d 2.0 cm. We also divide it in half 2/2 \u003d 1.0 cm, in order to put aside the extension along the hips on both sides of point B2. And we get points B21 and B22.

In this construction example, we will leave the dress of a straight silhouette at the bottom, therefore, along the bottom line along the side seam, we set aside the same values ​​as for the hips. And we get points H21 and H22.

Through the points G4-T21-B22-H22 and G4-T22-B21-H21 we draw the lines of the side seam of the shelf and back.

This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. 18.

Step 13

Rice. 19

To build a tuck along the waist line of the back, we determine the position of the tuck along the waist line on the back, for this, the distance T1T21 / 2 \u003d 21.8 / 2 \u003d 10.9 cm and we get point T4.

Next, we calculate the tuck solution along the waist line (R-r vyt tal - R-r vyt tal side) * 0.55 \u003d (11.5 - 4.6) * 0.55 \u003d 3.8 cm. We also divide this solution in half 3.8 / 2 \u003d 1.9 and set aside from point T4 and get points T41 and T42.

The height of the tuck from the waist line up and down is 15.0 cm each - we get points K1 and K2, respectively.

This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. 19.

Step 14

Rice. 20

To build a tuck along the waist line of the shelf, we use the position of the center of the chest on the shelf, for this we lower the vertical down from the waist line from point T6 to the line of the hips - we get point T5.

Next, we calculate the solution of the tuck along the waist line R-r vyt tal - R-r vyt tal side-R-r pulled out sp \u003d 11.5 - 4.6 - 3.8 \u003d 3.1 cm. We also divide this solution in half 3, ½ \u003d 1.55 and set aside from point T5 and get points T51 and T52.

The height of the tuck from the waistline up and down is the same as on the back, 15.0 cm each - we get points K3 and K4.

This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. 20.

Step 15

Rice. 21

To build relief lines, it is necessary to translate part of the chest tuck of the shelf. To do this, with a notch equal to the distance from the neck to the tuck of the back = 4.0 cm, set aside 4.0 cm on the shoulder line of the shelf and get point A81.

We connect point A81 and point G7 - this is the length of the radius of the transfer of the chest tuck = 26.3 cm.

Now, from point A4, we set aside the radius A4A8, equal to the section A9A81 \u003d 4.0 cm, put the first notch, and from point G7 with a radius equal to the segment A81G7, we make the second notch. At the intersection of the radii, we get point A8. Then we connect points A8 and G7, as well as points A8 and A4 - we get the line of the shoulder to the line of the relief of the shelf and the section of the relief of the shelf.

This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. 21.

Step 16

Rice. 22

To design the bottom line of the product, you need to lower the line of the center of the shelf - the descent of the bottom line H3H31 is 1.0 cm.

We lower the relief lines of the shelf and back to the bottom line and get the points H4 and H5, respectively.

This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. 22.

Rice. 23

The construction of the dress has come to an end and our drawing should look like the one shown in fig. 23.

Step 17

Rice. 24

Next, you need to transfer the main details of the shelf, the barrel of the shelf, the back and the barrel of the back to tracing paper and add allowances for the seams.

This build step should look like the one shown in Fig. 24.

If these are your first steps in designing, then the design must be checked, that is, the dress should be sewn from mock-up fabric and tried on to be sure that there were no errors in the calculations and construction.

Also, after construction, it is necessary to add the details of the facings of the neck and armholes of the back and shelves. And also, if desired, decorative elements - coquettes, flounces, edgings, etc.

Photo: site
Text and illustrations: Olga Kuznetsova
The material was prepared by Anna Soboleva