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Determine the wrong side of the edge. The front and back of the fabric. Edge detection
It is easier to distinguish the right side from the wrong side when several rows are connected and the pattern is visible. Of course, this also depends on the type of hinges used. To understand which side you are knitting on, you can also focus on the free end of the thread hanging at the beginning of the product.
If this thread is in the left corner of the product, then you knit on the front side and, conversely, if it is in the right corner, then you knit on the wrong side. This is because the base row following the initial chain of air loops is knitted from right to left.
If you knit single canvas and use a type of buttonhole that has a different structure on the right side and the wrong side, then you can choose which side to consider "right side" as you wish. At the same time, some complex patterns in which several colors of yarn are used have an easily recognizable wrong side.
Some types of loops have a similar structure on the front and back side. To distinguish between them, you can look at the free end of the thread hanging at the beginning of the product.
If you have the front side of the product in front of you, then this thread will be in the lower left corner. Conversely, other types of loops have a different structure on the front and wrong sides.
The description often specifies which side of the product should be worked on: on the front (face) or wrong side (wrong). As a rule, these abbreviations precede the description of the work on the form of the product.
When knitting complex multi-colored patterns, it is very important to be able to distinguish between the front and back sides, since unused motif threads should be pulled along the wrong side.
According to the magazine "Wonderful hook"
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Even at the stage of choosing a fabric, you should decide on its front and wrong sides, because the appearance of the product will depend on this. Confusion can lead to a fatal error when cutting, and the thing will be damaged. The result can be affected not only by lack of knowledge, but also by lighting, so it is undesirable to examine the fabric in the evening or in too bright light. There are a number of criteria that will help to correctly determine the sides of matter and avoid common mistakes.
In this article, we will summarize the experience of professional tailors, which will be useful to a wide range of readers.
Determine the front and back sides of the fabric
Fabrics are single or double sided. In the first, the front and back sides have big differences that cannot be overlooked. The latter have the same or slightly different sides. At the same time, for some materials, only one of them is used, while for others, the wrong side and the face are equivalent.
Simple signs
Printed fabrics are an easy object to determine the sides of the fabric, because the design on the front side is brighter than on the wrong side.
Fabrics with a woven pattern have a more distinct relief on the front side. These materials include jacquard and guipure with cord thread. They can combine jacquard and printed patterns.
The weaving of satin and satin is characterized on the front side by the presence of a scar located at different angles. In addition, the front surface is smoother, shiny and pleasant to the touch, unlike the wrong side.
The twill is easily identified by the rib on both sides, which is at a 45º angle, but has a different direction on each side. On the front surface, the scar goes from left to right and from bottom to top, and from the inside - vice versa. Twill lining fabrics are characterized by a silky shiny surface on the front side, and on the inside it is rough and matte, since cotton thread is used in the manufacture.
Finishing the fabric with sequins, metallic thread, embossing and embroidery - all this makes it easy to determine the front side. And in blended fabrics, a more expensive material is used for the front surface. In any case, the front side will look more attractive and richer, so it is impossible to make a mistake.
More difficult cases
When studying pile fabrics, one can make a mistake when determining the sides, since the pile can also be from the inside, like in a bumazee. The latter has a smooth front side, and is decorated with a printed pattern. You can unmistakably determine the wrong side of velor, velvet and corduroy - the fabric looks attractive only on one side.
A single-sided flannel can be confusing for a beginner tailor, as it is difficult to distinguish between the sides - plain weave and pile are present on both sides. Moreover, the inside and the front side are colored the same.
The front side of the drapes is distinguished by a smooth pile and a pattern that has one direction, or a dense pattern, in the absence of a pile. Loose weaving is a hallmark of the wrong side of this fabric. You will have to take a closer look at the double-sided drape: from the inside, the pattern is less clear, or the pile does not look very neat.
The cloth also presents certain difficulties in determining the sides of the fabric. This is due to the fact that the plain weave is tufted. The front side can be identified by the woven colored thread. If you forcefully run your fingers over the surface of the fabric on both sides, then the wrong side will be the side with a less dense pile and a worse surface quality.
If the signs listed above cannot be determined, then they are guided by the properties of the surface. Party with more quality fabric, a minimum number of defects and a smooth surface - front.
The presence of fluff as a criterion can be used in the study of cotton and linen fabrics with a smooth color and plain weave. To assess the brightness of the fabric and the presence of fibers, you need to direct light onto the material along its surface.
Difficult cases
Synthetic fabrics present great difficulty in determining the wrong side and the right side. They do not have defects, villi and weaving knots, which is associated with the use of modern technologies for their production. All properties and color of the material are set at the stage of thread formation.
The quality of the edge and the presence of holes on it is the only sign that can indicate the front or wrong side. The edge with the best quality serves as a sign of the front side. Holes on the fabric are formed when stretched on the calenders, even at the stage of finishing the material. However, these signs can be misleading. Not always, as is commonly believed, the convex side of the holes is on the front side, and their opposite arrangement is also possible.
Determining the sides of rep weave can be difficult. Reps are made not only from cotton fibers, but also from synthetic silk. It, like crepe and plaid, refers to two-sided materials, which does not allow you to find the differences between the inside and the face.
When considering woolen fabrics, attention should be paid to the brightness of colored threads: the side with a more saturated color is considered to be the front. If the media is rolled, the front side of the media is facing inward.
Instead of a conclusion
If the fabric cannot be determined by all of the above methods, then you should trust the tactile sensations. Women's fingers are the most sensitive instrument, so it is difficult to deceive them.
It happens that the cutter has a desire to deliberately use the wrong side. The discrepancy between the views of the authors of the fabric and the opinion of the tailor is a normal phenomenon. If the wrong side seems more attractive for creating an outfit, then you need to follow your feelings. Moreover, no one will know which side was considered the front.
natural fibers
Cotton (CO).
Cotton fiber is obtained from cotton bolls. The quality depends on the length of the fiber - the longer it is, the cotton is better and more expensive.
Properties. Cotton fiber is very durable, comfortable to wear and heat resistant. It has excellent hygroscopicity, absorbs a lot of moisture (20 - 65% of its own weight) and does not seem wet. In the process of mercerization (treatment with a solution of caustic soda while simultaneously stretching the fibers), cotton fibers acquire a soft sheen, their tensile strength and absorbency are enhanced.
Mercerized cotton compared to the usual - more durable, better painted and slightly shiny. Cotton fabric is almost not warm, so it is perfect for hot weather. The heat-shielding properties can be enhanced as a result of the napping process. Cotton fabric wrinkles a lot and shrinks when washed. Special processing - sizing or refining - makes the cotton crease-resistant and non-shrinking.
Cotton fiber is very resistant both to wear and ironing, it does not stretch, does not cause allergies, and absorbs moisture.
care requirements. Laundry that can be boiled can be washed in washing machine at a temperature of 95 ° C, colored linen - at 40 ° C. White cotton is best washed with universal washing powder, and colored things - powder for fine fabrics. Terry towels and underwear become very soft when dried in the machine even without the addition of emollients when rinsing.
However, drying cotton fabric machine method can cause severe shrinkage, so it should be resorted to only if there is an enable symbol. Ironing of finished cotton fabrics is carried out in the "wool" mode. In other cases, cotton items can be ironed on the "cotton" setting, best with a little moisture.
Other fibers of plant origin are rarely used for the production of underwear.
Flax fibers are obtained from the stems of this plant, from which yarn for linen is spun.
Properties.
Linen has a very smooth surface with a matte sheen, little soiling and almost no crumbling. Linen easily absorbs, retains and quickly releases moisture (up to 23%). Due to its hygroscopicity, linen clothing has a positive effect on the body's natural thermoregulation and is perfect for summer and the tropics. Linen is a very durable material, and when wet it is even stronger than when it is dry. The presence of vegetable glue in its composition makes the canvas harder and stiffer than in cotton fabrics.
Linen is a wrinkling material, but it is plastically wrinkled.
care requirements. Linen fabric tolerates boiling well. But depending on the type of finish, it is better to wash it at a lower temperature: colored fabric - at 60 ° C, dressed - at 40 ° C, in the machine with gentle mode. White or bleached linen is washed with a universal powder, unbleached and colored linen with powders for delicate fabrics. In doubtful cases, it is better to give the product for dry cleaning. When dried in the machine, linen can shrink a lot. When ironing, very high heating of the iron is allowed, while the fabric should always be moistened.
Hemp (HA).
Hemp fibers have only recently been used by designers to make fabrics for clothing. First, sticky substances and pectin are isolated from the stem and the fibers are separated. The fibers are then processed again to produce yarn and material. Hemp fibers are yellow-brown or brown and difficult to bleach, but can be dyed bright or dark colors. Externally and to the touch, hemp material is very similar to linen, but repels water better than any other fabric. It has low elastic properties, reacts to heat treatment and sunlight in the same way as cotton, is easily wrinkled, and should not be ironed or wrinkled too much, as this adversely affects the condition of the thread. The best hemp fiber for the textile industry comes from Italy.
This is Chinese nettle. Fiber in its characteristics is very similar to flax. Produced from Boehmeria nivea (a bush that grows in Southeast Asia, China, Japan, Southern Europe). The color is white, the thread is very shiny, like silk. Ramie fibers are very long, poorly stretched, but have excellent wear resistance characteristics - two times higher than linen and five times higher than cotton. The material is well dyed, while not losing its magnificent silk sheen. Perfectly absorbs moisture and dries quickly, resistant to bacteria and mold fungi. Ramie is used mixed with wool, with silk fibers or as a substitute for linen. This is an inexpensive, but very practical and beautiful natural fiber. However, it is somewhat coarser than linen, and also has low elasticity.
Sheep wool.
The main "supplier" of wool fibers is a sheep. In addition to it, other animals give fine wool - Kashmir and Angora goats, Angora rabbits, llamas, alpacas and camels.
Used by wool fabric manufacturers, the designations "Reine Wolle" (refined wool) or simply "Wolle" refer to low-quality wool or regenerated wool, which is made from recycled wool. The designation "Schurwolle" (shorn wool) is used only if the wool is obtained from the shearing of healthy live animals and contains no more than 7% foreign fibers. Reine Schurwolle (cleaned sheared wool) contains no more than 0.3% impurities. Manufacturers of only such wool are entitled to use a symbol indicating that it meets international quality standards (Woolmark).
Properties. Woolen fabrics are little polluted and almost do not wrinkle. It is often enough for woolen clothes to hang a little in a damp room to smooth out the wrinkling and odors of sweat, food and smoke. The surface of the woolen fabric repels water droplets, but absorbs up to 40% moisture in the form of steam. Wool dries slowly. However, it retains heat well and has the ability to fall off, which enhances its thermal insulation properties and makes it windproof.
care requirements. Wool is washed mainly by hand using washing powders for delicate or woolen fabrics. The water temperature during washing should not exceed 30°C. Washing should be done in in large numbers water. Wool does not like long soaking. Woolen products are never rubbed or twisted. They are not squeezed, but carefully rolled up in a terry towel, then they are not hung up, but laid out to dry. Never dry woolen clothes in a car, in the sun or on heaters. Jackets, trousers, skirts, etc. are best dry-cleaned. It is necessary to iron woolen products in the "wool" mode, with steam or through a damp cloth.
Lambswolle / WO
Wool from the very first shearing of a young six-month-old lamb. Woolen hairs have not yet rounded and coarsened, they are very thin, pointed and short. The wool is not tear-resistant, but baby-like and soft, caressing the skin. It is used in the production of thick knitwear.
Merino sheep wool. Sheep of the best Merino breeds are bred in Australia and New Zealand. This is an elite breed of sheep. The smoothness of merino wool yarn and fabric is due to the length, uniformity, and silkiness of the wool hairs. This wool is not prickly, it is thin and soft, often used for underwear and thin summer knitwear. It is ideal for children's clothes, so it does not irritate the skin. Other types of fibers are rarely added to it, and then only in order to make it cheaper. Merino sheep wool is more expensive than ordinary sheep wool.
Alpaca / WP
From the point of view of zoology, alpaca belongs to the order Lama Genus, divided into three branches: llama, guanaco and alpaca. A separate, fourth, branch is vicuña. Together, these animals form the family of South American camels.
Alpacas live on the high plateaus of South America at an altitude of 4 - 5 thousand meters in extreme climatic conditions. There is very strong solar radiation, cold winds blow and sharp temperature drops are observed: from -20 ° C at night to + 15-18 ° C during the day. To survive in such conditions, alpacas must have a special coat: light, thin, soft and at the same time so dense as to not let water through. Especially valuable is the suri alpaca wool, which are considered high-bred animals. Suri's hair falls down the sides like a mane. It is longer, shiny and straight than other alpacas, which is why it is so highly valued. However, suri are unsuitable for breeding in livestock farms, so their share in the total volume of alpaca wool is only 15%.
Alpaca haircuts are experienced every two years. At the same time, they are never sheared, like sheep, "naked", because in the complete absence of hair, animals in such harsh climatic conditions will simply freeze. Therefore, the collection of wool for one haircut is not so high: a maximum of 3.5 kg of wool is sheared from one animal, and even half a kilogram less from suri. This naturally melange wool is sorted exclusively by hand. Thin, soft, it has an elegant sheen. Processed alpaca wool is stored for a long time, without losing its natural qualities and virtues, and is used only in high-quality expensive materials. Coats and outerwear made of alpaca are not exposed to moisture, give cozy warmth and lightness. Due to the fact that the individual fibers of wool are long, alpaca wool does not fall off and practically does not form spools. The silky softness of alpaca wool is not only noble, but also easy to care for. It is enough to brush it lightly with a brush and hold it in the fresh air for a while, and it will again be like new. Alpaca wool products can be dry-cleaned.
Wool of the South American semi-wild or partially domesticated llama. Shearing is done every two years and brings 2 - 3 kg of raw material from the animal. Llama wool is often used in expensive outerwear. Characteristic features: perfectly retains heat, lightness, softness and fluffiness, has a rich color range. The yarn from this wool is dense, so pellets do not form on the product.
Camel hair (WK)
Camels have a dense coat of hair that reliably protects them from the harsh climate and sudden changes in temperature. Camel hair is not sheared. It gathers during molting in early summer. From one animal per year you can get up to 5 kg of wool. The best tailak wool is combed from ghoul non-working camels, because it is the thinnest. Camel hair removes static electricity and is not electrified. It practically does not bleach and therefore comes in a natural color, dark or black. A young camel up to one year old is white.
Kashmir (WS)
This fiber is obtained from the undercoat of the Kashmir goat, whose homeland is Mongolia, Afghanistan, the Himalayas. Cashmere goats live in the mountains at an altitude of 5000 m and have a wonderful dense coat. They are not sheared, but fluff is selected from the outer and outer hair during the change of the hairline. The output of down, cleaned of awns, is very small - from 100 to 200 grams per year per animal. High-quality cashmere down is one of the most expensive natural materials. Cashmere can be white, grey, brown and black natural colors. In order to dye wool, the original color is first etched out, which leads to a deterioration in quality: the wool becomes stiffer and loses elasticity. Cashmere goat yarn is very light, warm and soft, but too susceptible to friction and pilling, so cashmere is usually mixed with wool fibers in varying proportions. Knitwear containing cashmere must be hand washed with gentle detergents at a temperature not exceeding 30°C. It cannot be pressed or twisted.
Angora (WA)
This is the fur of the angora rabbit. The fluff is combed out twice a year. High quality woolen hair is 6 to 10 cm long. Shorter hairs are very difficult to keep in the thread when spinning and twisting. It is this not very high-quality wool that falls out or “crawls out” of cheap woolen products. Modern, hybrid bred in Germany, angora rabbits have a long pile with amazing luster and a high heat retention coefficient. These animals are shorn five times a year and receive 900 - 1000 grams of high-grade wool from each haircut. Despite their thinness, angora hairs are very strong. Angora wool is most commonly used in combination with other wools and synthetic fibers in knitwear. New weaving technologies have made it possible to use angora wool in modern woven materials. In its pure form, it is practically not used. Firstly, because it is quite expensive, and secondly, because it is completely inelastic. However, angora is just perfect when mixed with sheep or merino wool, acrylic. It gives products warmth, softness and lively hairiness.
Mohair (WM)
This yarn is obtained from the wool of the angora goat. Straight fibers, with a single fiber length of 120 - 300 mm, almost do not roll. Products made of fabrics, which include mohair wool, have a peculiar smoothness and noble sheen and silkiness. Mohair is a great heat regulator. Fabrics containing a high percentage of quality mohair are very durable, but require special care and are difficult to sew. Kid–Mohair is the wool of a young Angora goat, especially gentle and flowing like silk hair. Mohair wool is quite expensive and is most often spun with wool or man-made thread. Mohair is well dyed, easily cleaned of dirt. Wash it very carefully so as not to lose the "fluffiness".
Natural silk fiber is obtained from silkworm cocoons, that is, caterpillars that are found in nature or specially bred by humans. The highest quality silk is considered to be twisted silk from long threads extracted from the center of the cocoon. The length of such a thread can even reach one kilometer.
Properties. Silk clothes are pleasant to wear in any weather. It warms in the cold and cools in the heat. Any silk fabric absorbs moisture in an amount equal to almost half its own weight, and at the same time does not seem wet to the touch. Silk quickly evaporates moisture from the surface of the skin. However, sweat can cause indelible stains that make silk brittle. Depending on the quality, type of weave and finish, silk fabrics are very light and soft or heavy and stiff. Accordingly, they crumple to a greater or lesser extent. The disadvantage is their low light fastness.
care requirements. Silk clothes are recommended to be dry-cleaned. It is mandatory for products made of taffeta, silk brocade, chiffon, organza, silk satin and georgette. Printed and dark silk fabrics are also better to be cleaned, as silk sheds heavily when washed. Wash it by hand at 30°C with a mild detergent. Do not rub the silk fabric with your hands, wring it out or twist it. First, silk should be rinsed well in warm, then in cold water. At the end of the rinse, you can add a little vinegar to the water - this refreshes the color. Silk should not be dried by machine, as well as in the sun or near heating appliances. Wet silk products should be carefully wrapped in a cloth and lightly squeezed out the water. Iron silk with a moderately heated iron in the "silk" mode from the wrong side, in a slightly damp form. When ironing, the fabric must not be sprayed: this may cause stains on it.
Chemical fibers
Man-made cellulose fibers
Viscose fibers (VI).
Viscose is the most natural of all chemical fibers. It is obtained in the process of regeneration of cellulose from coniferous wood (spruce, pine) by reaction with sodium alkali and carbon disulfide. Cellulose dissolves in water and forms a viscous mass. The streams of viscose passed through small holes become viscose fibers during hardening. Thus, viscose is a natural cellulose without impurities. Modern complex chemical processes give a huge range of viscose fibers with different basic qualities. Depending on the purpose, they are made with a shiny or matte surface. Viscose fabric can be given the appearance of silk, cotton, or wool by changing the sheen, thickness of the fibers, or "curling" them. For example, thickening and nodules on the fibers can give it the appearance of flax. Viscose is soft, with a silky sheen, absorbs moisture well. It is used in a mixture with other materials, most often with elastane. It gives viscose fibers elasticity, and they do not wrinkle so much. Viscose products are easy to wash, but they must be handled with care.
Properties. Viscose fibers absorb moisture better than cotton, but they are less durable when wet and not as wearable. According to their physical and chemical properties, viscose fibers repeat natural materials(cotton, wool), and in terms of shine and smoothness they compete with silk.
care requirements. It is recommended to wash viscose by hand or in a machine in a gentle mode at 30 - 40 ° C with a washing powder for delicate fabrics. Viscose fabrics must not be rubbed, twisted or spun in a spin, they can be hung to dry completely wet or rolled up in a sheet and gently wrung out. They are also not allowed to dry in the machine. Iron viscose with an iron in the “silk” mode when wet or through a damp cloth. Products made of viscose fabric can be dry-cleaned.
Modal (MD).
It is a fiber converted from beech pulp. It is considered a more modern variety of viscose.
modal properties. Modal products are pleasant, silky to the touch, absorb moisture well, “breathe”, do not shrink when washed, retain their shape, have a soft sheen, retain the intensity of colors for a long time, and do not cause allergies. In terms of physical and chemical properties, modal can be compared with cotton. Products made from it are more durable than those made from viscose. It is used in high quality and expensive collections. Mixed with cotton, it gives the fabric a subtle sheen and an elegant look. The cotton-modal blend replaces the cotton mercerization process.
care requirements. When washing, it is advisable to turn the product inside out and avoid the use of bleaching agents, as they cause the material to roll.
Lyocell (LYOCELL, TENCEL).
It is a fiber from the cellulose of eucalyptus trees. Viscose of new generation. Gives a cottony feel when worn.
Properties. Lyocell is a silky and soft fiber, when wet it is three times stronger than viscose; does not roll, stains well, has a soft sheen, breathes and absorbs moisture well. In production, lyocell is used in different compositions, for example, lyocell with elastane, lyocell with modal and elastane. The surface of tencel or lyocell fabrics resembles dense wet silk and has an ashy hue.
care requirements. Wash at 40°C, iron inside out.
Cupra (CUP).
Cupra threads are made from cotton cellulose. It is dissolved with copper salt and ammonia (from Latin cuprum copper - copper), then endless threads with a matte sheen are spun from this mass, which are very reminiscent of natural silk. The fiber is very fine and smooth. This is the most noble, high-quality and expensive fiber based on cellulose. The production process is environmentally dirty and is characterized by a significant consumption of expensive copper.
Properties. Cupra fabrics behave like silk: they absorb moisture well, breathe well, are pleasant in the heat and warm in the cold. They are draped with beautiful waves, which makes them indispensable for elegant dresses and blouses.
care requirements. For cupra fabrics, it is recommended to machine wash in a gentle mode at a temperature of 30 - 40 ° C or hand wash with products for delicate fabrics. They can not be rubbed, twisted or rinsed strongly, dried in the machine. Iron the fabric after complete drying from the wrong side in the “silk” mode.
Acetate (AC) and triacetate (TA).
Unlike viscose, acetate and triacetate fibers do not consist of pure cellulose, but of cellulose acetate (cellulose waste).
Properties. Acetate and triacetate silk fabrics have a slightly shiny surface and are very similar in appearance to natural silk. They perfectly retain their shape and almost do not crumple. Acetate silk does not absorb moisture well (only 6% of its own weight), but dries quickly. He doesn't take it well high temperatures(melts at 210°C) and dissolves in acetone. Triacetate silk absorbs even less moisture than acetate, but has greater heat resistance (melting point about 300 ° C) and retains its shape well when pleated.
Triacetate silk tolerates normal machine washing at temperatures up to 70 ° C and ironing in the "silk / wool" mode. Otherwise, triacetate products are treated in the same way as acetate silk. Viscose mixed with acetate is used as a lining. care requirements. For acetate silk, hand or machine wash at 30°C on a delicate cycle is recommended. Chemical cleaning is possible. Under no circumstances should clothing made of acetate silk be dried in a machine; it must be hung up to dry. Acetate silk dries quickly and does not need ironing. If you still want to iron it, do it from the wrong side with a barely warm iron. Triacetate silk tolerates normal machine washing at temperatures up to 70 ° C and ironing in the "silk / wool" mode. Otherwise, triacetate products are treated in the same way as acetate silk products.
This fiber appeared on the Russian market quite recently. Meanwhile, in the East it is distributed no less than cotton. However, its properties are in many ways superior to it.
Bamboo is the fastest growing plant in the world: it can grow up to 22 m in height in a month. Its cultivation does not require the use of fertilizers and pesticides, so bamboo fiber is an environmentally friendly material. The manufacturing process of this fiber (through the use of steam and boiling) does not damage environment. Unlike wood harvesting, cutting down bamboo does not damage upper layer soil and does not destroy the plant itself, so it quickly recovers without accumulating pollution in the trunks.
Bamboo fiber has a natural luster, is softer than cotton and feels like silk to the touch. Bamboo fiber fabric does not cause irritation, has natural antimicrobial and deodorizing properties, contains bamboo kun antimicrobial component, which prevents the growth of bacteria. It has been experimentally established that more than 70% of the bacteria present on bamboo fiber die.
Bamboo fiber underwear is very comfortable due to its unusually porous structure. Moisture from the surface of the skin is instantly absorbed by the tissue and evaporates. This property of bamboo fabric is even more pronounced than that of cotton, which is famous for its high degree of absorbency.
Artificial protein fibers
Soy fibers are environmentally friendly. Knitwear of them in their own way appearance similar to silk, in terms of hygroscopicity - with cotton, and in terms of thermal protection - with cashmere.
Studies have shown that soy fibers have unique antibacterial properties, maintain natural body temperature, have a beneficial effect on human skin and improve its energy balance.
Corn kernels (ingeo).
ingeo fibers are produced in an environmentally friendly way. When pure, these fibers are oily and silky to the touch, but when mixed with, for example, wool, they take on the characteristics of wool. They are beautifully woven, better than wool and cotton.
Synthetic fibers
Polyester (PL, PES).
This is a polyester fiber, the most diverse of all synthetic fibers.
Properties. Polyester is characterized by the highest wrinkle resistance. The classic blend is 50% polyester with 50% wool or 50% cotton. Polyester has very good light fastness, is a heat-resistant fibre, is superbly cleanable and easy to wash. The fiber is thermoplastic, thanks to which the products retain the pleated and corrugated effects well. In terms of resistance to abrasion and bending, it is second only to kapron fiber. However, polyester has a very low hygroscopicity, poor dyeability, increased stiffness, electrified and increased pilling. All these shortcomings can be eliminated in the production of ultra-thin microfibers (mickofibre).
care requirements. Polyester is machine washable at 40°C. Some polyester fibers tolerate temperatures as high as 60°C. Higher heat can create creases in the fabric that are then very difficult to remove. White fabrics should be washed with a universal powder, colored fabrics with a powder for delicate fabrics. Polyester can only be dried slightly in the machine at a low temperature, but in no case dry. In this case, it is necessary to follow the care instructions indicated on the label so that hard-to-remove creases do not appear. Polyester jersey is dried only in the unfolded form. Polyester does not require ironing, but if it is needed, it is necessary to iron with a moderately heated iron (in the "silk" mode) and through a damp cloth. Polyester items can be dry-cleaned.
Polyamide (PA).
The most famous polyamide fabrics are nylon, capron. The most famous polyamide microfibers are taktel, meryl, cordura, saplex.
Properties. Same as polyester. Polyamide fibers are the most durable of all textile raw materials in terms of tearing and abrasion. Due to its excellent strength in combination with wool and cotton, polyamide gives fabrics strength and stability. In the weaving process, blended fibers contribute to the formation of complex and interesting structures and connections / weaves of threads.
care requirements. Same as polyester. But polyamide fiber is more sensitive to heat, so it must be washed at a temperature not exceeding 40 ° C. Iron polyamide at the lowest heat and without steam.
Polyacrylonitrile fibers (PC).
The most famous fabrics are acrylic, nitron, curtel and orlon.
Properties. The most soft, silky and "warm" synthetic fiber. Polyacrylic is produced almost exclusively in the form of high-volume crimped fabrics and therefore has a strong wool-like feel to the touch. Meanwhile, it surpasses wool in heat-shielding properties. But in terms of abrasion resistance, it is inferior even to cotton. It has low creasing and shrinkage, low hygroscopicity, it is highly electrified and pilled, but pills disappear during wear due to low strength properties. Modified fibers - modacrylic (MA) - have been created to eliminate the shortcomings.
care requirements. These requirements are the same as for polyester, but PC items should be washed at a temperature not exceeding 30°C. Drying by machine is excluded.
Elastane (EL).
These highly elastic fibers are able to stretch seven times and then retract back to their original length. Elastane fibers (best known under the brand name LYCRA) are typically used as fabric additives and are almost never used in their pure form. SPANDEX is the American name for elastane. The addition of elastane to fabrics and knitwear improves consumer properties, but at the same time increases the cost of products.
Properties. Elastane fibers make fabrics elastic and, like synthetic fibers, give them wrinkle resistance. Fabrics with the addition of elastane fibers are very durable, retain their shape and color, almost do not wrinkle and do not require special care.
care requirements. For all fabrics with elastane fibers there are general rules- when washing, use powders for delicate fabrics and do not dry in a machine. The temperature during washing and ironing is determined by the chemical composition of the fabric.
Microfibres.
Fabrics such as belset, taktel, diolen are obtained from polyester or polyamide fibers.
Properties. These endless threads or fibers are ten times thinner than silkworm threads. They are processed into unusually thin yarn, from which fabrics so dense are woven that they become impervious to wind and rain, but at the same time let moisture (sweat) evaporate from the body, that is, they contribute to good air exchange of the skin. Since they do not absorb moisture, but pass it outside, where it evaporates, clothes made from such fabrics are always pleasantly dry from the inside. Microfibre fabrics are very soft and light, and they have all the positive qualities that are appreciated in conventional synthetic materials: they are tear resistant, do not require special handling, etc.
care requirements. Microfiber items can be machine washed at 40°C on a delicate setting. When rinsing, emollients should not be used, otherwise the fabric will lose its water-repellent properties. Products cannot be wrung out and dried. Hang them up to dry. Ironing such fabrics is usually not required, but this can be done with a moderately heated iron on the “silk” setting.
Summarizing the above, we offer retail employees abstracts on the topic "Fabrics and fibers".
Fabrics and fibers (abstracts)
Animal fibers
Advantages Flaws
- wearability
- Softness
- Ease
- Retains heat
- Material of natural origin
- High elasticity
- Good ironing
- Little wrinkled
- Withstands high temperatures
- The surface of the woolen fabric repels water droplets and is easily cleaned from dirt.
- Mohair and cashmere are especially soft and shiny
- Merino wool is not prickly, smooth, fine and soft, does not irritate the skin
- Kashmir - very light yarn, warm and soft, not prickly
- Angora gives products warmth, softness and lively hairiness.
- Shrinks and deforms
- May fall off
- Peeling
- rubbed
- Dries slowly
- Merino wool is more expensive than regular wool
- Cashmere is a yarn very susceptible to friction and pilling.
Advantages Flaws
- handsome
- Thin breathable material
- Soft
- Easy to iron
- Nosky
- Warm in the cold and cool in the heat
- Comfortable to wear in any weather
- Hypoallergenic
- Not washable, dry clean only
- Unstable coloration
- Does not fold well (cut in folds)
- Expensive
- Sensitive to sweat, which can cause indelible stains that make silk brittle
- Can't dry in the sun
Vegetable fibers
Advantages Flaws
- Nosky
- Soft
- Comfortable to wear
- Elastic
- Good absorption capacity (hygroscopicity)
- Wash strength
- natural material
- Mercerized cotton is more durable, shines beautifully
- Wrinkles easily
- sits down
- Yellow in the light
Advantages Flaws
- Very durable
- Nosky
- breathes
- Good absorbency
- Easy
- Cool in the heat
- natural material
- Wrinkles easily
- Poorly ironed
- Shrinks after washing and stretches in the sock
Rami - "Chinese nettle"
Advantages Flaws
- Very strong fiber
- breathes
- Beautifully glitters
- Good absorbency
- light fiber
- Cool in the heat
- Dries quickly
- Withstands high washing and ironing temperatures
- natural material
- Wrinkles easily
artificial fibers
Viscose fibers
Advantages Flaws
- Glitter
- streaming
- breathe
- Lungs
- Good staining and color retention
- According to their physical and chemical properties, they repeat natural materials
- Wrinkle easily
- sit down
- Weak absorbent properties
- Tends to turn yellow when exposed to artificial light and heat
Advantages Flaws
- Stronger than viscose
- Less viscose wrinkle
- breathes
- Does not shrink when washed, retains shape stability
- Silky looking
- Soft to the touch
- Stronger than viscose
- Slightly more expensive than viscose
Advantages Flaws
- Light as cotton
- Lasting
- Soft and shiny like silk
- Properties very similar to cotton
- Looks like natural fabric
- Affordable
- Machine washable
Advantages Flaws
- The most noble and high-quality fiber produced on the basis of cellulose
- Soft, flowing, like silk
- breathes
- Excellent shape retention, durable
- Machine washable
- Thanks to the special treatment, it can look like suede
- Expensive fiber
Advantages Flaws
- Brilliant
- Keeps warm
- Dries quickly
- Soft to the touch
- Little wrinkled
- Weak seams
- Low thermal and wear resistance
- Significant electrification
Synthetic fibers
Polyamide
- Polyamide fibers added to natural fibers significantly increase the strength of products
- Little wrinkled
- Reminiscent of suede both visually and to the touch
- Small, lightweight
- Breathable, super warm synthetic fabric
- It protects well from wind and rain, but at the same time passes moisture (sweat) evaporating from the body, that is, it contributes to good air exchange of the skin
- Tear resistant, low maintenance
- Obtained from polyamide and polyester resins
- Very durable material
- Wrinkle free
- Easy to wash
- durable
- Dries quickly
- Blended fabrics with the addition of elastane fibers have increased elasticity, hold their shape well and are practical to wear. It is important to note first of all that when caring for products made of mixed fibers, one should focus on the temperature of washing and ironing, which is tolerated by the most sensitive fibers that make up the fabric.
(title is a link to the source)
Post has been edited Viola- Aug 10 2009, 16:54
Working with fabric requires accuracy, the final result depends on it. The product should not have defects, therefore, when cutting, it is important to correctly determine the wrong side.
For most fabrics, it differs visually, but, for example, it is impossible to do this with chiffon or organza, so there are other ways of recognition.
Double-faced fabrics are also made at weaving factories, in which case the seamstress independently chooses on which side to cut.
These include:
- fleece;
- some species;
- silk stretch;
- costume wool;
- tapestry, velveteen with a fur reverse side.
Such materials can be used for sewing various products - coats, capes, jackets, blazers, ponchos.
We study the structure and pattern of fabric
It is very easy to distinguish the wrong side from the front if you buy a canvas with a print. You need to lay out the pattern on it where the pattern is dull. The “face” of printed fabrics is easily determined. From the outside, the image is bright, clear, saturated, and from the inside it looks faded.
You can easily identify the right side of jacquard and printed fabrics. In the process of weaving the threads on the machine, the relief is formed from above. The underside is smoother. On it you will not see knots typical of Chanel and boucle fabric.
What if you have to work with a plain canvas? The wrong sides of silk, satin, satin are matte. Gloss and brilliance of the fibers is present only on the outside. Finding out where the wrong side of a smooth fabric is is simple: the surface is more fleecy on it, weaving defects (nodules, thickening of the thread) are found.
Edge detection
On any canvas, sealing weaving is performed on both edges to prevent shedding. It is called an edge, which is created by introducing an additional thread (sometimes it may differ in color). It is visible only from the front side of the fabric. If you notice symbols in the form of letters, numbers or inscriptions, place the canvas in a comfortable reading position, this will be the front part.
The surest sign of definition is the punctures performed by the loom along the edge. Needles are inserted from the wrong side, holes are formed, therefore, bulges are formed from the front, which are felt tactilely.
This method helps dressmakers figure out how to cut correctly:
- gauze;
- muslin;
- organza;
- batiste;
On the edges of some fabrics, punctures are not performed. In this case, look carefully: where the surface is smooth, there is a “face”. On the reverse side, it is rough, with nodules and thickenings.
In order not to be mistaken in determining the wrong side, ask the seller to make a mark with tailor's chalk when buying. Just do not delay cutting, the image may disappear after a while. If you have tried all the methods, but still haven’t determined where the face is and where the wrong side of the fabric is, place the pattern on the side that you like best, the main thing is not to confuse them in the process.
Methodical development of the lesson "Determination of the front and back sides of materials. Properties of fabrics." The lesson is built on the principles of consistency, consistency in teaching and applying the acquired knowledge in practice. In the lesson, problem situations are created that allow students to independently solve the problems that have arisen. New acquired knowledge is consolidated during the business game "Atelier".
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MUNICIPAL BUDGET GENERAL EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTION
"Secondary school No. 22 of Vladivostok"
METHODOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENT
Topic: Determination of the front and back side of the material.
tissue properties.
Completed: teacher "Technology"
MBOU "Secondary School No. 22"
Vladivostok
Mospan I.V.
Vladivostok 2015
Lesson plan.
Subject. The front and back of the fabric. tissue properties.
Other work: Study of the properties of tissues. Business game "Atelier"
Lesson Objectives:
- to acquaint students with the basic properties of the fabric, to teach to determine the front and back sides of the fabric;
- develop spatial representation, performing skills;
- to instill skills of accuracy;
- correction of attention, thinking, visual memory.
Lesson type: combined.
Materials and tools: textbook, workbook, fabric samples, glue, scissors, hand needle, thread.
During the classes
- Organizing time.
A) Checking those present;
B) Checking readiness for the lesson
- Repetition of the material covered.
- What section are we studying now?
- What is called wool?
- What is rune?
- What is called raw silk?
- How to identify the right side of a printed fabric?
- How to determine the front side of plain dyed fabric?
- Learning new material.
Girls, please take a close look at your fabric samples. How else can you determine the front side of the fabric.
- Are you having difficulty?
- What do you think it will be about at the lesson?
- - That's right, let's start the lesson of obtaining new knowledge and formulate the topic of our today's lesson "The front and back of the fabric. Fabric properties.»
(a question to the class)
How do you think. Why do we guys need to know this?
(students offer various answers, the teacher asks, if necessary, leading questions, gives some comments,)
Message of new material (+ R/R)
Front and back side.
Textile - textile fabric made on a loom.
The fabric consists of two interlacing threads arranged perpendicularly. The system of threads running along the fabric is calledbasis , and the system of threads located across the fabric -duck .
The surface of the fabric depends on the characteristics of the finish of the fabrics.
And now, let's take tissue samples in our hands, and carefully look at them ...
Signs of determining facialand wrong side of the fabric(§3, pp.15-16)
- According to the printed drawing.For fabric with a printed pattern, the pattern on the front of the fabric is brighter and clearer.
- On the surface. For smoothly dyed fabrics, the front side is smoother, and the wrong side is more fleecy. To determine fluffiness, it must be considered at eye level.
- According to the pattern of weaving.In twill fabrics on the front side, the rib runs from bottom to top and from left to right.
- By brilliance. Eg satin fabric more shiny than satin.
- Accuracy. The number of knots, loops, ends of broken threads on the front side is less than on the wrong side.
- By pile. On the front side of velvet or velveteen is a long pile. On the wrong side, the surface is smooth or the pile is short. In drapes, the pile is more orderly on the front side, and the wrong side has a slightly sloppy appearance.
- Along the edge. There are punctures along the edges of the fabric at the edge. On the front side, the fabric at the puncture sites is more convex.
- Mixed fabrics.Finishing threads are brought to the front side. For example, in brocade, a shiny metallic thread - Lurex is displayed on the front side.
Distinguish between one-sided and two-sided fabrics. Remember that the definition of the front and back sides plays an important role when cutting clothes.
In one-sided fabrics, the front and back sides differ sharply from each other. In double-sided fabrics, this difference is almost imperceptible; both sides can be used when cutting.
Question. What affects the correctness of determining the front side of the material?
The nature of the front side of the fabric depends on:
Appointment;
Appearance of the product;
Processing in the manufacture of the product
tissue properties.
Girls, in the last lesson we worked with you on creating models of clothes from various materials.
Question. Did you encounter any difficulties while doing the work?What questions have arisen?
In order not to make a mistake in choosing a fabric for the manufacture of any product, it is necessary to be able to correctly determine the properties that they possess. The properties of the fabric affect the choice of model and the processing of the product.
The main properties of fabrics are mechanical, physical and technological.
Table 2.
The study of the properties of wool and silk fabrics
The name of the tissue property | Characterization of tissue properties |
||
From silk | Wool |
||
Mechanical properties |
|||
Strength | |||
Wrinkle | |||
Drapeability | |||
wear resistance | |||
Physical properties |
|||
Heat shields | |||
Hygroscopicity | |||
Dust capacity | |||
Technological properties |
|||
Slip | |||
shattering | |||
Shrinkage | |||
The table is filled using the material(§3, pp. 16-17 etc. working pp. 18-19)
- Mechanical propertiesdetermine how the fabric relates to the action of external forces.
Strength - the ability of the fabric to resist tearing. This is one of the important properties that affect the quality of the fabric.
Wrinkle - the ability of the fabric during compression and pressure on it to form folds.
Drapeability - the ability of the fabric, when it hangs, to fall in soft rounded folds. It is no coincidence that curtains and curtains on the windows are called draperies.
wear resistance- the ability of the fabric to withstand the action of friction, stretching, bending, compression, moisture, light, sun, temperature, sweat, etc.; depends on the strength of the fibers of the fabric.
- Physical properties- properties aimed at maintaining human health.
Thermal properties- the ability of the fabric to retain the heat of the human body; depends on the composition, thickness and type of finish of the fabric.
Hygroscopicity- the ability of the fabric to absorb moisture.
Dust capacity - the ability of the fabric to retain dust and other contaminants.
- Technological properties- properties that appear in the fabric during the manufacture of the product, from cutting to WTO.
Slip - can occur when cutting and grinding fabrics and depends on the smoothness of the fabrics and the type of weave.
shattering - lies in the fact that the threads are not held along the open sections of the material and slip out, crumble, forming a fringe.
Shrinkage - reduction in fabric size under the influence of heat and moisture, depends on the composition of the fiber, structure and finish.
And now, having gained new knowledge, we will continue to work further on creating clothing models.
- SEQUENCE OF EXECUTION
LABORATORY AND PRACTICAL WORK
Teacher
I invite you to become experts in our laboratory for the study of the properties of fibers and fabrics. We will conduct research to determine the properties of silk and wool
The teacher introduces students to the equipment with which they will work in the lesson.
Teacher
In this lesson, you will use the following lab equipment:
- magnifiers - to study the appearance,
- porcelain cup - for burning,
- tongs, for picking up hot dishes or hot materials,
- needle and thread, scissors, needle.
Therefore, it is necessary to remember and carry outsafety regulations.
1. Dangers at work:
needle injury to fingers
hand injury with scissors;
eye injury.
2. Things to do before starting work:
Place tools and equipment in the place provided for them.
3. Things to do while working:
It is forbidden to start work without the permission of the teacher.
- Listen carefully to all instructions of the teacher when conducting research.
- Keep the workplace in order.
be attentive;
Stick needles and pins only into the needle bed;
Put the scissors on the right with closed blades pointing away from you;
Pass scissors only with closed blades and rings forward.
4. What needs to be done at the end of work:
Remove workplace
Teacher
Start researching. All research results must be recorded in a notebook in order to correctly draw a conclusion about the work done.
Instructions for doing the job are given.
ACTION PLAN
Condition: following the action plan.
1 . Fill in Table 1 "Distinctive features of fibers." (lesson number 1)
2 .Fill in Table 2 "
Laboratory work №2. Studying the properties of natural wool and silk fabrics
Materials and tools:samples of natural and woolen fabrics, textbook, workbook, hand needle, thread.
Introductory teacher briefing:
Work sequence.
- Determine the strength of the fabrics.
- Determine wrinkle woolen fabric and natural silk fabric
- Define Drapeability first woolen, and then silk fabric.
- Describe the nature of the surface of the fabrics (smoothness, shine), draw a conclusion about their sliding
- Determine the crumbling fabric, taking out the threads with a needle, first one, two, three together, etc.
Easily fraying fabric- without effort immediately took out 5 threads.
Average crumbling- 3 - 4 threads at once.
Doesn't crumble - one thread was pulled out with difficulty.
- Record your observations in workbook in the form of a table.
3. Determine the right side of the fabric.
4 . Business game "Atelier"
BUSINESS GAME "ATELIER"
Condition: All work is done in a team, sequentially,following the progress of the work.
Progress:
- Come up with a name for the studio.
- Assign roles:
Customer-
- By type
- By appointment: casual or dressy
Technologist-
fashion designer
- Incorporating new knowledge into the knowledge system (7 min)
Teacher
Now they usually use blended fabrics, i.e. synthetic fibers are added to woolen and silk fibers and then fabrics with new properties are obtained, which shrink less when worn, are easier to wash and clean.
Guys. Represent messages on care of clothes. (homework)
- Analysis and evaluation of the lesson.
What new did you learn in the lesson.
Will the knowledge and skills acquired today at the lesson be useful to you in everyday life?
Complete the phrase:
I understand that….
I learned…
I was surprised….
I wanted….
- Results and evaluation of the work performed.
Thank you all for your fruitful work. I hope you liked the lesson.
you listened carefully new material answer questions, do research. You conducted mutual control and self-control of the work performed, analyzed your mistakes.
Everyone saw how much they learned the topic of today's lesson.
- Homework.
- § 3, p. 15-20;
- Creative task -Pick up riddles, proverbs, sayings about fabrics.
Issue on landscape sheets, preferably with drawings ..
- Repeat Device sewing machine(grade 5)
- Bring: cotton fabric 15*15 cm, thread, scissors, machine needle No. 90
- Workplace cleaning
Lesson "Properties of fabrics"
WORK SEQUENCE
Condition: All work is done in a team, sequentially,following the action plan.
1. Fill in Table 1 "Distinctive features of fibers."
2. Fill in table 2 "The study of the properties of woolen and silk fabrics "
3. Determine the right side of the fabric.
4. Business game "Atelier"
BUSINESS GAME "ATELIER"
Condition: All work is done in a team, sequentially,following the progress of the work.
Progress:
- Come up with a name for the studio.
- Assign roles:
Customer- comes to the atelier with his fabric and expresses a wish about what kind of product he would like to sew.
- By type : dress, sundress, blouse, skirt, coat, vest or other ....
- By appointment: casual or dressy
Sports, entertainment (for carnival participants, theater artists) or others ... ..
Technologist- defines and names the main properties of tissues (Tables 1 and 2). Concludes: "Is this fabric suitable for the desired product"
fashion designer in accordance with the properties of fabrics presented by the technologist, he offers the customer the style of the product.
3. Protection of the work (a sketch of the model is presented, the proposed fabric, the performance of the participants in the game in accordance with the assigned roles).
