The disadvantages of the procedure are the disadvantages of keratin hair straightening. Keratin hair straightening cocochoco - "revived even irreversibly burned hair, made them soft, manageable and beautiful. (photo inside) "Is it possible to do keratin on burned hair

Good day to all! Today I'm going to talk about the "keratin repair" procedure, what it has in common with keratin straightening, and what risks it carries for your hair.

First of all, there is a terrible confusion about this procedure. Under the guise of "recovery with keratin" in the salons, they are trying to sell everything to customers.

Do not lag behind salons and manufacturers of home care products, calling "keratin" and "based on keratin" even those products in which the desired keratin is less than the dust that was shaken from the paws by a passing moth.

So, what is keratin and why is everyone so obsessed with it?

Keratin- a type of protein (protein), the main element of hair.

It is from keratin that the internal structure of the hair consists, it is he who forms the keratin chains, the ligaments of which make up what we used to call hair.

These chains are held together by special types of bonds that hold the keratin fibers together:

- Hydrogen bonds. This is about a third of all the "clutches" inside the hair. They are very unstable and are destroyed under the influence of even water, which, however, is not terrible - after drying, they self-repair. That is why if you wind wet hair on curlers, curls appear on straight hair when dry, and the next time they get wet, they will disappear again.

- Ionic (salt) bonds. Also not particularly stable. This kind of "coupling" is usually broken when the normal pH of the hair shifts to too acidic or too alkaline (and this happens with any permanent hair coloring, using soap to wash your hair, etc.).

- Disulfide (sulfur) bridges- the most durable, such a "coupling" is not torn by water or when washing your hair. You can break these links in 2 ways:

- using aggressive chemical procedures- hair coloring with permanent dyes (regardless of whether ammonia dye or not, if the manufacturer promised you steadfastly dye your hair, pieces of ties unambiguously end), or perm(straightening),

- exposure to high temperatures(over 130-150 degrees Celsius).

Now let's see what happens during a procedure like " keratin recovery"- it is - hair straightening(on the example of COCOCHOCO Keratin Treatment). Manufacturer's promises and application scheme:

COCOCHOCO Keratin Treatment - A unique procedure that restores hair keratin lost as a result of dyeing, other chemical and thermal effects.
The application of the Keratin Treatment method is salon procedure performed by professional stylists. During the procedure, the product is applied to the prepared hair, absorbed into them, dried and stretched.

During the procedure, a one-component composition is used - Mask for restoring and straightening hair "Working Composition". After applying the mask, the hair is dried and pulled out with ironing irons, passing each strand 5-7 times. Temperature 230⁰С.

That's all the "miracles" of straightening - yes, the disulfide bonds of the hair "kill" not by the chemical composition. They are killed by exposure to super- high temperature!

By the way, the same thing happens when using aggressive dyes or when lightening hair (for example, after blond powders), which is why a washcloth instead of hair is such a common attribute for blondes.

Hair with the loss of the necessary "couplings" simply disintegrate. Hence the numerous complaints about brittleness and cross-section of hair after keratin straightening (this does not become noticeable immediately, but after a few months, because many do not associate the sad state of hair with keratin).

Of course, not all hair unequivocally comes to an end after such events. Some types of hair (thick, coarse and strong) can survive such abuse not even once, but several times. But thin and weak (or already painted), as a rule, receive critical damage after the first time.

And it does not matter that the straightening agent contains keratin. Keratin (even if it is in the right concentration and has right size molecules) does not restore hair bonds. You can "saturate" your hair with protein as much as you like - if it does not stay inside the hair, there is no point in this.

Main conclusion: KERATIN RECOVERY has no nothing in common with KERATIN STRAIGHTENING, as they have completely different tasks.

If, after the “recovery” procedure, you were promised that the hair would change its structure (they would stop curling, the waves would smooth out, etc.) - this is not a restoration event at all, but an event to straighten them!

What is keratin (protein) recovery?

This is the use of products containing keratin on the hair.

But not all keratin is good for hair. And not all hair is good for it.

Firstly, in order to have the desired effect, keratin (protein) in the composition must be enough. And if you see in the composition of the mask (for example, the so popular L "oreal Absolute Repair) the desired protein at the very tail of the list is already behind preservatives and perfume fragrance, it will not bring any benefit to your hair.

Secondly, in order to penetrate the cuticle into the inner layer of the hair, keratin must have desired molecular size.

"Normal" keratin does not penetrate into the hair, it simply sticks on top, acting like silicones or a film from lamination . The most striking example is ampoules Dikson Ristrutturante:

The same thing happens with hair when using homemade "strengthening" masks - proteins are neither from eggs, nor from sour cream, nor from gelatin hair are not digested. Pr reason all the same size of the molecule.

In order for keratin (protein) to penetrate the hair, its molecules must be artificially crushed (hydrolyzed). Only hydrolyzed(or crushed to an even finer state - amino acids) proteins are able to integrate into the structure of the hair and provide local "repair", filling in damaged areas.

Everything you wanted to know about one of the most popular hairdressing services! What are the criteria for the quality of this procedure, what result can be expected from it, how to care for hair after and many other questions are answered by the top stylist of the beauty salon "Alexander Todchuk Studio" Ira Sanchez.

Ira Sanchez Top stylist of the beauty salon "Alexander Todchuk Studio"

1) In fact, “straightening” is just a marketing ploy, and the procedure was originally aimed at restoring and treating hair.

The composition with keratin, under the influence of high temperature, is temporarily “sealed” in the structure of the hair, filling it with shine, strength and, at the same time, straightening it. Marketers decided to focus on this pleasant “side” effect. But if you have strong and elastic curls, after keratin straightening, they will not turn into perfectly straight ones. They will be more obedient and curly. Initially curly hair will become wavy, and wavy hair will become straighter. And only on naturally straight curls, this procedure will give the result of a perfectly smooth, flowing hair sheet with a glossy sheen.

2) After kerative straightening, special care is required.

First, you need to limit yourself to the use of conventional shampoos, give preference to sulfate-free ones. Secondly, for several months you will have to give up any oils and masks. Oils make the hair structure heavier, and masks loosen its cuticle and help wash out keratin. How long the result of the procedure will last depends on your lifestyle. If you go to the pool, wash your hair often, are going on vacation, where you will swim in salt water. sea ​​water under the scorching rays of the sun, the effect will not last long.

3) If you dyed your hair the day before, keep in mind that after keratin straightening, they will become lighter by half a tone - a tone.

Plan ahead and let your colorist know about it. If you color your hair along the entire length, choose a shade slightly darker than usual. This rule applies to the palette of dyes for both blondes and brunettes.

4) If you dye your hair, do it before, not after the procedure.

In this case, the hair color will last longer, since the paint pigment is sealed along with the keratin. But if you apply a dye after keratin straightening, then the effect of the procedure will immediately decrease. The exception is if you dye only the roots of your hair. In this case, you can be completely calm about the result, since the master always applies the keratin composition, departing from the roots by 3-4 cm.

5) Keratin straightening cannot be done independently at home.

This is one of the most technically complex procedures, requiring high professionalism from the master and strict adherence to the rules for applying the composition. In this case, experience is also very important. If your master cuts and dyes hair perfectly, but is a beginner in keratin straightening, it is better to refuse the procedure. The slightest mistake in drawing up the proportions of the composition and its application, curing or ironing, and in best case there will be no effect from the procedure.

6) If after the procedure the hair did not get better, but, on the contrary, deteriorated, in 90% the reason for this was the error of the master.

After application, keratin must be “sealed” at a temperature of 230 degrees. If the master applied too little keratin composition or did it unevenly along the length of the strands, then these 230 degrees burn the hair itself directly. In this case, instead of recovering, they will be even more injured.

7) If, after keratin straightening, the hair becomes “oily”, quickly gets dirty and visually lost in volume, then the procedure was performed technically incorrectly.

Hair can become “greasy” if the master made a mistake in the amount of keratin composition, applied it too much or overexposed it. The most important thing in this procedure is a perfect execution technique. step by step instructions. For example, the amount of product that is suitable for voluminous hair and thick hair, For thin hair will be too heavy.

8) The result of the procedure largely depends on how many times the master went through each strand of hair with an iron.

In some cases, 4-5 times are necessary, but if the curls are too tight and bouncy, it may be necessary to repeat this 8-10 times. An individual approach is needed.

9) After keratin straightening, you can do a variety of styling and use any styling products.

Want to go back to curls again? You can safely wind the curls or, conversely, straighten them even more. Curlers, tongs, irons, hair dryers - you can use any tools you are used to. This will not affect the effect of the procedure.

10) Keratin straightening does not affect hair growth or hair loss in any way.

The composition of the product does not come into contact with the scalp. As I said, it is applied, retreating from the roots by 3-4 cm. If it suddenly seemed to you that the hair began to fall out more, look for other reasons.

11) Keratin straightening does not affect the thickness of the hair shaft, after the procedure the hair will not become thicker.

Keratin will make your curls more shiny, elastic, restored and smooth. They will stop fluffing from moisture, become more obedient in any styling, curls and curls will straighten out. But there won't be more of them. The impression of volume is created by enveloping the hair with a keratin composition. And if you have initially porous and severely damaged hair, in this case, the recovery effect will be most noticeable.

Hair loss after the procedure can be caused by several reasons:

1. weakening of the bulb: it becomes difficult to hold heavily heavy hair;
2. the composition of the agent applied to the hair includes chemical compounds, such as the carcinogen formaldehyde, which over time destroys its own keratin layer of the hair, as a result of which they are depleted;
3. improper care, in particular, too frequent washing (more than once a week) with sulfate-containing shampoos, the use of “brute force” - curling irons and ironing, elastic bands, hairpins, visiting a bath;
4. hitting an unskilled specialist who burns his hair with an iron and uses cheap means. The composition of a quality drug should include at least 40% protein sheep wool, capable of saturating and strengthening hair, and inexpensive analogues include artificial keratin, which dries hair, and even then in meager amounts - 5-10%, but they abound in chemistry;
5. hair fell out initially;
6. the patient had a disease of the scalp.

Attention! The amount of formaldehyde should not exceed 0.2%, as it causes irritation of the mucous membranes of the eyes and nose, even possible damage, severe skin irritation, difficulty breathing. For this reason, keratin straightening should not be done by pregnant women.

What to do if hair falls out after keratin straightening?

If the hair began to fall out a lot, you should consult a trichologist who will conduct an examination and advise on care.

You can try the recovery yourself, but you need to follow some recommendations:

• avoid the use of previously unused drugs, since the skin during this period is extremely sensitive and may react with even more loss;
• after consulting a doctor, take vitamins;
• Healthy food;
• do not injure with elastic bands: it is better to wear loose hair.

How to fix the result?

finished goods

Pharmaceutical cosmetics will help to fix the effect of keratin and support hair. It is possible to use shampoos, the range of which is significant. The most famous:

1. Natura Siberica– for tired and weakened hair, Protection and Shine for colored and damaged hair, Neutral to sensitive skin heads - have mainly plant components and, in particular, Altai sea buckthorn extract, rich in vitamins; The brand has been certified by ICEA.
2. Estel that restores hair strength and shine; of the minuses - it almost does not form foam, it is quickly consumed.
3. "Grandma Agafia's Recipes"– Black anti-dandruff shampoo, Homemade shampoo for every day, Shampoo against hair loss based on five soapy herbs and burdock infusion.
4. Logona- with bamboo extract, volume with honey and beer, anti-dandruff with juniper oil.
5. Macadamia Natural Oil gently cleanses, fortifies the epidermis and cuticles.

When choosing a shampoo, you need to ensure that it does not contain sulfates that wash out keratin. In addition, sulfate-free products are easier to wash off with water, so the hair is less injured and does not cause allergies.

The names of these substances:

• Sodium Lauryl Sulfate.
• Sodium Laureth Sulfate.
• Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate.
• Ammonium Laureth Sulfate).

They usually cost 2-3 on the list of shampoo ingredients. Instead, they are allowed to have:

• sarcosinates;
• acylglutamate;
• cocoglucoside;
• lauryl glucoside;
• coconut sulfate.

Such shampoos cannot be supplemented with other means.

It is also possible to purchase balms, for example, the Mulsan brand, which do not contain preservatives and have a pleasant smell.

Another option is masks that strengthen hair, for example:

1. LOreal Professionnel mask and oil.
2. Fiber Force by Schwarzkopf to repair badly damaged curls.
3. Curex Therapy by Estelle.

All of them have a lot of positive customer feedback.

Folk methods

Alternative medicine also offers ways to preserve hair after keratin straightening. Among them:

Master's hands

You can also improve the condition of damaged hair in a beauty salon.

1. hair elution involves staining with Elumen with restorative properties that strengthens the roots. The effect lasts up to 2 months.
   • Pros: Shiny hair, protected from bad weather, increased volume.
   • Minus - hair breathing disorder due to the formation of a film, there are contraindications - damage to the scalp, allergies, long hair (due to weighting).
2. When glazing, glaze with ceramides is applied to the hairs which makes them smooth and light. Cons - after applying the product, you can not dye your hair, it itself is quickly washed off.
3. Shielding- Creation of a thin film that nourishes and moisturizes dull and unruly hair. True, in a month the carriage will again turn into a pumpkin.
4. In the case of biolamination, the head is covered with a cellulose agent, protecting from the sun, wind, moisture, sea salt.
   • Other pluses are safety due to the absence of ammonia and hydrogen peroxide.
   • Cons - fragility, price.
5. Lamination will help to quickly restore hair when, as a result of applying proteins, vitamins, minerals to the hair as part of therapeutic agents, they are strengthened, and a thin film eliminates minor damage and irregularities and protects from the external environment.
6. Another option is collagen restoration, as a result of which the hair receives collagen protein, which recreates and improves their structure.

Thus, the causes and ways to eliminate the problem of hair loss after keratin straightening are diverse, but when choosing a treatment, you should rely primarily on the advice of specialists.

Every day, students come to the INOAR Academy for master classes. Some of them are just learning the basics of keratin straightening. Others already have hairdressing experience behind them. And this experience is not always positive. In any case, both those and others always have a lot of questions. Let's answer some of them.

What errors can the master face when performing keratin straightening?

Often, after training, the masters still do not have enough experience, and they make some mistakes:

1. Excess composition (more than normal). If more than the norm is applied to the hair during the procedure (Moroccan Hair Keratin / G-Hair Keratin / BotoHAIR), the procedure will become uncomfortable, the procedure time will double, the hair will become greasy and will quickly get dirty.
2. Wrong choice of iron temperature.

If the wrong temperature is selected, the procedure will be ineffective. For achievement positive result follow the temperature rules:

• for hard, curly hair- 230 C;
• for normal, dyed hair - 210 C;
• for bleached, damaged hair - 180 C;

Does keratin "eat" hair color?

If all the rules for performing the keratin straightening procedure are followed, especially with regard to the temperature regime and conditions for dyeing hair before and after the procedure, then keratin does not affect the color. After the procedure, due to the fact that the hair is saturated with oils and useful substances, the cuticle closes, light reflection and hair shine appear. Because of this, the hair appears half a ton lighter.

Which irons are suitable for keratin straightening?

In order to qualitatively perform the procedure of keratin straightening, it is necessary to choose the right iron.

• The iron must have temperature control up to 230 degrees.
• Power must be at least 50 watts.
• Ironing plates should be ceramic, titanium or tourmaline coated.
• When buying an iron, check that the plates are tightly compressed.

In which direction should the strand be pulled during the keratin straightening procedure?

Maintaining the angle of the strand during keratin straightening is very important. In order to preserve the client's native volume of hair as much as possible, it is necessary to pull each strand perpendicular to the head: on the back of the head, pull towards ourselves, on the top of the head - up.

How often can I repeat the keratin hair straightening procedure?

Keratin straightening is a hair treatment procedure. The repeated procedure will not damage the hair, however, it must be remembered that the volume of the hair cuticles is limited, filling them is possible only to a certain level. If the client wants to repeat the procedure or the previous procedure did not take for any reason, then the interval between two keratin straightening procedures with Moroccan Hair Keratin and G-Hair Keratin formulations is one month.

How to do keratin straightening of hair that is badly damaged at the ends?

The ends of the hair are usually worn out by styling and this is the most damaged area of ​​the hair. Therefore, when performing keratin straightening, you should treat them as carefully as possible.
During keratin straightening, the first three or four times the master must hold the iron with a firm pressure - along the roots and middle of the hair, weak - at the ends. Then we stretch the entire sheet of hair from the roots to the ends with a strong pressure on the iron.

When to wash off Moroccan Hair Keratin: after an hour or immediately after ironing?

It takes 15 minutes for the hair to cool down after the master has passed through it with an iron. However, if you don’t feel like waiting, you can blow them with the cold air of a hair dryer for one or two minutes. After that, feel free to wash off the composition from the hair and apply a mask.

Can masks and conditioners from other companies be used after keratin straightening?

The right tools for home care allow you to keep the beauty of your hair for a long time. The products of the INOAR home range contain the same components as in professional means For straightening INOAR. This allows you to increase the duration of the effect of straightened hair up to six months. Therefore, we recommend using INOAR home care products.

Marina Ignatieva

Reading time: 10 minutes

A A

If a girl has curly locks, then someday she will definitely want to straighten them (every second, according to statistics). And here a special procedure comes to the rescue, which can straighten curls even after a perm.

So what do you need to remember about keratin hair straightening?

Advantages of keratin hair straightening - photos before and after after the procedure

This procedure allows you to straighten your hair without the use of chemicals.

Benefits of keratin straightening:

Disadvantages of the procedure - cons of keratin hair straightening

Like any cosmetic procedure, keratin hair straightening has disadvantages:

• If it is raining outside, and you just left the salon, then we recommend using an umbrella, otherwise the effect of the procedure will be spoiled.
• Allergic reactions associated with intolerance to individual components of the composition of the straightening agent are possible.
• Within three days it is impossible to make mechanical "violence" over the hair. And this means that braids, buns, tails and everything else will have to be abandoned.
• The procedure is quite unpleasant, since tearing of the eyes may occur, due to the fact that the preparation contains formaldehydes, the vapors of which irritate the mucous membranes.
• If the procedure is done in an unventilated room, then there is a risk of formaldehyde poisoning. This phenomenon can even lead to cancer.
• After some time, the ends of the hair break off, which forces you to go and cut the ends of your hair.
• There may be the appearance of greasy and dirty hair.
• The volume of hair will decrease.
• If you have a large head of thick hair, then the effect will not last long.
• The procedure is slow. If you are the owner long hair to the waist, then you should prepare for the fact that you will sit in the master's chair from 3 to 5 hours.

Expert opinion of Vladimir Kalimanov, Chief Technologist of Paul Oscar:

Keratin straightening is just 1 type of straightening out of three: there is also permanent straightening and acid straightening. Each of them has its pros and cons, as well as active components and mechanisms of work.

The keratin straightening procedure, having many advantages, has not bypassed the disadvantages.

The biggest of them is the discomfort during the procedure for both the master and the client. Depending on the concentration of the active ingredient (formaldehyde releaser) in the composition of the product, the eyes may begin to water and pinch in the nasopharynx (the same sensations of discomfort when cutting onions).

Is it possible to get poisoning from formaldehyde vapors generated during the keratin straightening procedure?

When working with modern professional preparations, this is impossible, since less than 0.2 mg/m3 of air is released during work.

In accordance with the order of the chief sanitary doctor of the Russian Federation dated May 25, 2014 on the MPC r.z. (maximum permissible concentrations of the working area), without harm to health, a person during an 8-hour working day can stay in a room with a formaldehyde vapor concentration of not more than 0.5 mg / m3 of air. As we can see, the concentration evaporated during keratin procedures is 2 times less than the permissible one.

But do not forget the moment about individual intolerance to specific ingredients and allergenicity. Not only keratin straightenings are not immune from this, but also shampoos, masks and hair dyes. Therefore, always before starting the procedure, you should carry out allergy test on the possible reaction of the body to the composition.

If, after the procedure, the hair looks dirty for the first few weeks, this is rather a minus not of keratin compounds, but directly of the master performing the procedure. Such an effect can occur if the master has incorrectly selected the composition for keratin straightening, or has violated the execution technology.

I want to dispel the myth that you can not wet, pin up and wash your hair for 72 hours after the procedure. These frames can be attributed to the old compositions that were relevant a few years ago. Today, formulations for keratin straightening allow you not to apply any restrictions in hair care in the first 3 days after the procedure.

Indications and contraindications for keratin hair straightening - recommendations of cosmetologists.

Many people think that such a procedure is almost harmless, however, there is a list of indications and contraindications for this procedure (not to mention the above-described disadvantages).

What should be considered before going to the salon?

Indications:

• Hair that needs straightening and shine.
• Curly hair, difficult to style and comb.

Contraindications:

• Damage to the scalp. If you have even the smallest wounds on your head, then you should refuse the keratin hair straightening procedure.
• For some scalp conditions, you should consult your doctor.
• If your hair falls out, then you should refuse the procedure - after it, the hair becomes heavier, which means that the hair follicles will not hold the hair well, which can lead to even more severe hair loss.
• If you are breastfeeding or carrying a child, then you DEFINITELY need to abandon the straightening procedure.
• People with a precancerous condition should also not have this procedure.