How to tone a finished plush toy. Ears, nose, eyes and head toning. Toning with acrylic paints for fabric

24.08.2020

When you sew a soft toy with your own hands, there always comes a moment when the face of the toy needs to be revived. Make the nose a little darker, highlight the area of \u200b\u200bthe eyes and mouth. It is not difficult to do this. Today I will share with you my experience of tinting using the example of a Teddy bear toy. We will need:

head soft toys;
oil paints;
flat brushes;
sheet of white paper;
cotton pad or rag.

The head of the toy must be fully assembled: stuffed with filler, eyes and nose sewn on. In my case, the eyes will appear later. I have light fur, so I will tint the muzzle of the Teddy bear dark paint. Squeeze out the paint on a sheet of paper and leave for about half an hour. Let the paper soak up excess oil so that the fur does not get glossy in tinted places and do not appear greasy spots. I took two colors: dark brown and black.

Type on the brush the main color, in this case brown and "paint" with the brush on the paper until the color almost disappears. Now the brush will leave a barely noticeable haze.

We start tinting from the nose of the toy, from the darkest place and directly around the nose. We rub the paint into the fabric. First around the nose, then in the form of a halo, moving to the bridge of the nose. Notice how the color gets lighter and lighter and a gradient effect appears.

Now we will do the same with those places where there will be eyes. Stretch the color from the center outwards. Next, let's focus. To do this, we need a darker paint. I took black. Again, we carry out the same procedure for drawing on paper.

Very carefully darken the areas around the nose (especially on top) and in the center of the eye. See how the muzzle of the bear is becoming more and more realistic?

Now let's do some shading. Take a second brush with a longer bristle and use it to blend the border between the main color and the accent so that the transition is not visible. Compare two photos: top and bottom.

That's all! The head of our Teddy bear toy is ready. Finally, the oil will dry out after 2-3 days and become slightly lighter. After that, it remains to add eyes and your bear will be as alive.

We continue to make out the head of the bear.
The next thing I usually do is sew on the ears. Freehand draw the bear's ear. You can see examples in other master classes, you can draw from this. It's simple and I think you can do it without difficulty. Please note that we are making a bear, not a mouse, a bunny, a squirrel or an elephant)). The ratio of the proportions of the ear to the head must be respected.

We cut out the pattern, stick it on cardboard, wait for it to dry and cut it out again.

We take the plush, put it with the pile down, approximately determining the direction of the pile and the shared thread. We put our pattern and circle. This time. take it off and put it next to it, circle it again. Two. And we do this two more times. Only four times. Don't forget to leave seam allowances.

Cut out with allowances. It turns out four parts. There are two ears, each needs two parts - the outer side and the inner. Some masters make the inside of the ear from a different fabric, for greater expressiveness. I think it depends on the image of the toy and is optional. I also did this in those bears on which I was just starting to train (Rose, gentleman, grandfather frosts and snow maidens). However, when she began to make her own real collectible Teddy bears, she considered it redundant for the time being. Bye. Each image must be felt. And what will happen next - wait and see.

I duplicate each half of the ear with a cotton cloth.

I fold the parts in pairs with the pile inward and sew them by hand, as well as the head, at the same time overcasting the edges. I sew only the rounded edges, and do not sew the straight edge (the base of the ear). Through it we will turn it out and sew it to the head.

Please do not scold me for being so detailed, to the point of stupidity), I tell you. Anyone who knows how to sew, of course, will understand at a glance how to do it, just give a hint. Well, what about the one who took a needle and thread for the first time in his hands? There are no skills, no experience, minimum knowledge, but I really want to create something beautiful. I hope that I help you, I try to show as many photos as possible.

Here's what happens.

We turn inside out

Now I recommend that you overcast the edges of the hole, through the cat. turned out. Especially for those who have little experience in sewing. To be honest, I forgot to do it myself - I was so carried away by the process. I always do, but I forgot here). Well, it happens ... If you sweep, then it will be easier for you to just keep working. Plush and calico will be together and it will be easier for you to tuck the edges of the eyelet inward and sew up. The hole is small, it did not have time to fray, and I quickly wrapped it inside and sewed it up with small stitches.

It turned out two small bear ears

It's a tough moment and a funny one at the same time. What is the difficulty? We need to find the correct location of the ears on the bear's head!. What's funny? A centimeter lower or higher, closer or further and ... in front of you will no longer be a bear, but a mouse, a squirrel or even a bunny or an elephant)). You won’t believe how important it is - the location of the ears)! Try it, experiment, put the ears in different places on the head and you will see it. Based on intuition and knowledge in zoology, we finally find the right place and pin our ears on both sides.

Here you will also need a centimeter and your eye. Try to position your bear's ears in the same way). Another hint: in this model of a bear's head, you can focus on the side seams of the head. So, we pin the ears, you can make such a nice bend in the middle of the ear, as if to emphasize the inside of the ear. once again we check by eye and centimeter whether everything is exactly.

And now calmly begin to sew by hand. We take a sharp, long and thin (but not beaded) needle, insert the thread and start. It is hard to sew on, help yourself with round-nose pliers - pull out the needle or insert it into the plush. I sew around. I start from the upper tip of the ear, go along the inner side to the lower tip, and turn to the outer side of the ear, to the upper tip of the ear. Inner side that ear, the cat. located on the side of the muzzle. We will tone it down later. The outer side of the ear is the cat. from the back of the head. On the upper and lower tips of the ear, sew more firmly, fasten more.

Made one circle and secured, but do not cut the thread. It is necessary to make another such circle. The fact is that the stitches are quite large. This is due to the fact that sewing is not very convenient, the fabric is thick, the head is in sawdust, plus the pile is in the way. But, by the way, the pile hides your stitches. This is good. Make another such circle and the eyelet will be sewn firmly and securely. We sew the second and that's what happens.

Ears are ready! Well, now ... spout! Eeeee ... Where to start then? … You can buy a spout. This is the simplest and most
interesting. Of course we will do it ourselves. Let's embroider! When I was just learning to sew bears, I found quite a lot different forms spouts on the Internet. Look a couple of times and you will understand that it is also not difficult. So we draw a nose on paper and cut it out. in the photo, the nose pattern is shown along with beaded eyes.

Different needlewomen spouts embroider differently. Who embroiders first the contour of the nose, and then the nose itself along this contour; who does by eye, relying on his skill; who marks the nose with separate large stitches and deliberately carelessly (by the way, I like the current method, I will have to try); Well, who puts a cloth nose under the embroidery, for greater relief. It is to the latter that I count myself. A dense dark fabric is suitable for lining, you can even take a thick one. I have a piece of this fabric from time immemorial. In my opinion, this is a very dense wool, of good quality. I put a small pattern of the nose, pin it and carefully cut it out without allowances.

I am trying on the nose, it is better right away with the eyes.

And then the spout is glued with transparent Moment glue. Let the glue set a little.

Now let's start embroidering the nose. I prefer rose threads. The noses of the bears are black, which means that the color of the threads will also be black. For embroidering the nose and sewing on the eyes, I use two types of needles. Tapestry needle with a large eye, 4.5 cm in size, I use directly for embroidery. I use a special huge needle, 15 cm in size, for threading a thread over a long distance. Now you will understand everything).

I cut a thread 2 m long from a ball, fold it in half and insert the two ends folded together into the eye of a large needle. The other end of the thread has a loop. This is done in order to secure the beginning of work without a knot. What we do in the neck area.

Fixed. Now you need to stick this large needle with a thread in the neck area, draw it through the entire chin and bring it out over the upper edge of the glued nose. This is difficult to do, we are hindered by tightly stuffed sawdust and a disk in the neck. But you have to be smart. That's why you need such a long and strong needle.

We take out the thread.

Further, it is not convenient to embroider with such a needle. Therefore, we change the large needle to a smaller needle, I have a tapestry. Why do I take tapestry? Such a needle is also strong, thick and with a large eye. We have to sew sawdust and a seam in the center of the muzzle in the nose area with it. Trust me, it's hard. Once, while embroidering the nose of one of my bears, I broke such a needle! One can now imagine with what force and, at the same time, how carefully it is necessary to work.

Well, now we embroider, with vertical stitches, focusing on the edge of the glued spout. First make a couple of stitches at different ends of the spout and in the center, so that it would be easier and more even to lay subsequent stitches. Take a closer look at how you tighten the stitches: do not need to be very strong or weak, you need to choose a medium tension. Take your time. Help with your other hand to lay the stitch evenly on the fabric, thread to thread. Try to be vertical. You can, however, intentionally make a few stitches crooked. It will then seem that the nose has already been darned and not very neatly). I like it that way too, and that's what I did with Gustav's bear. A little carelessness in our vintage style is even welcome). Well, it will be easier for you. If you suddenly made a mistake and in order not to redo it, you can translate the error from a minus into a plus.

Imagine, I was so carried away by this difficult stage that I hardly took pictures. I hope that you still figure out how to increase the nose.

The nose is embroidered. Now you need to make a couple of stitches to designate the mouth. I like serious and sad bears. And you - as you wish). Having laid the last stitch on the spout, we bring the needle in the center of the lower edge, where there was and is a corner of the spout. We make a couple of stitches arbitrarily, in the direction you need. One of these stitches, the first one, we make with a tapestry needle. And we make the second and last stitch of the mouth with a large needle. That is, before putting the last stitch, we change the needle again, insert it in the right place in the mouth and bring it out already in the neck area.

We pull out the thread, fasten the ends and hide the ends of the threads in the bowels of the head. Cut off the excess thread. Everything is hidden and nothing is visible. When fixing, you can again change the needle to a tapestry, for ease of use.

Here's what happened

In the photo, an oblique stitch runs along the nose, I don’t know where it came from, miracles). In reality, it is not, which will be seen in further photos.

Now the eyes. Oh eyes! In this bear, I suffered with the choice of the size of the eye.
Usually masters use special glass eyes for Teddy bears. Some of this glass is painted by hand. I've never tried it, it's probably very beautiful and exciting. I have ordinary plastic black beads, but old ones, which in our case is very, very good!)) There are two sizes, and in the previous Teddy bears I used small beads. And in this bear, too, I thought to sew small ones. I even took a picture and showed you them along with the spout. I even did a fitting with them! But... I still can't explain how it happens? Surprisingly, the bears really tell you what to do next! She began to apply small eyes - well, not something and that's it. And higher, and lower, almost on the very nose I planted them, and wider - well, not that. I took a larger size of beads and, you know, suddenly liked it! The expression of the mosechka was as close as possible to the image of the cat. I originally intended to give this bear. So her eyes will be big.

We outline the place where the eyes will be. Then I mark these points with small stitches of very strong thread. I do the same as with the nose. I take a very strong thread, any, so that it includes a decent proportion of synthetics, cat. and will determine its strength.

I put a thread (1m) into a large needle, stick it in the neck area, pass it through the entire chin and take it out in the place where the eye is supposed to be sewn. At the neck, I leave the tip not fixed, approximately 15 cm long. I brought out the needle with the thread and stick it nearby at a distance of mm5 from the thread exit point, and I bring the needle out in the place where the second eye will be, in a mirror image. I brought out the needle with the thread again and again I stick it at a distance of 5 mm from the thread exit point, and I bring it out already in the neck area.

So, both ends are brought out in almost the same place in the neck. Now we take and tighten them a little. The stitches in the place of the eyelet will sink a little into the plush, forming small dimples-eye sockets. We fix the ends, tie them together, but do not cut off and do not hide. One end of the thread was long enough. We will need it to sew on the eye. Let's leave it for a while.

Once again try on the beady eyes.

Well, the mosa is starting to take shape!)) However, we have not yet sewn on the beads. Now you need to revive the head a little, make it more interesting and realistic. I love the toning step. Finally, you feel that in your hands you do not have a ball, but almost something alive. You start talking to the bear). This is fine. Do you think I'm deviant? Yes! And you, too, will be with them when you experience this pleasant feeling - the birth of something alive, sweet and pretty, created by your hands. By the way, the bear's birthday is considered when the eyes are sewn on! But back to toning the bear. So, in front of you are objects, a cat. I use for painting a bear: oil artistic paint "burnt umber"; artistic pastel, earth tones; two brushes with hard bristles and acrylic matte varnish to cover the nose with it.

We take a tube of oil paint and squeeze a small amount onto a regular canteen paper napkin. This is best done in advance, when you are still doing the ears or nose. It is necessary that excess oil, cat. is part of the paint, gone (absorbed) into a napkin. There will be such a blurry oil stain around a small piece of paint. Now we take a large brush, touch the paint a little and start - attention! - vazyukat)) on a sheet of paper to remove excess paint from the brush as much as possible. Traces of paint on paper should be almost dry. Almost, but not quite dry. How much paint is needed on a brush - you will feel with experience by painting several bears like this.

Well, now we begin to paint the bear). I think the most convenient place on the bear's head to start (for testing) is the ears. It was not in vain that we bent the ear a little inward, and in this hole we put the first stroke. We touch the pile gently, with a little pressure. You will feel the process itself and you will like it. We paint, we paint, we press - there is not enough paint? We repeat the procedure with a brush, paint and paper and return to the ear. You notice that the center of the inside of the ear has darkened, stop, do not overdo it. Better, then touch up some more, if you decide that it is necessary. For now, stop and see what happens.

Now the eye sockets. When you sew on the eyes, it will look very expressive.

Also, if desired, you can walk along the seams of the head. You can tint them all, you can partially. In general, continue to act on intuition, as you like and in accordance with the chosen image.
I decided at this stage to tone the neck area a little, and then add more at the end.

We are now done with paint. But if, look above, we have more pastels. It can be used as desired, it does not give a very bright effect, but I still like it.

I forgot to tell you one detail. Plush has a sheen, even the oldest plush. Those. pile shines. Some people like it and I like it too, but you have to work in accordance with the image. If you are just making a Teddy bear, modern, without a touch of antiquity, then the shine will not hurt, even embellish the toy. Mishutka, the cat we are doing, I conceived an old one, though a little bit. However, the shine must be reduced. There are several ways, and I use two of them. 1. Boiling a whole piece of plush with soda for 20-30 minutes, at the very beginning, even before cutting 2. Rub it with sandpaper. In the first case, the brilliance becomes less, but does not completely disappear. The second method is used in the process of work, as each part is prepared. Those. the finished, but not painted head is polished, each finished foot separately, and the body is rubbed when the whole bear is already assembled. Glitter also goes away, but not all. And along with the shine, the pile goes away. When using sandpaper, be careful - the plush is easily rubbed to the base. This property can be used if you want to make some extra wear somewhere, a little. This will emphasize the antiquity of your bear.

I return to this bear. My piece of plush is old but in good condition. However, upon closer inspection, I noticed that he was covered in small scuffs. It's noticeable in some of the photos. And ... it suits me very much). There is little shine on it, so this time I didn’t torture it with boiling. I also decided not to rub my head with sandpaper. And I decided to use the third method, how to reduce the shine and give a slightly different shade to the plush. I read about the above methods on the Internet, for a long time and it is available to everyone. But the third way is pastel. Honestly, I figured it out myself. Most likely, he is also described somewhere, in some MC on bears, I did not discover America. But he didn't meet me. While buying oil paint, I saw a box of pastels next to me. I noticed that the tones are earthy and I took it and bought it too. And suddenly like it! I tried it and really liked it! Pastel I tint is not the first bear. Why do I like pastels? 1. The shine is removed, you paint over it. 2. Give such an unobtrusive shade to the main color of the plush. It seems to me that the toy becomes even more realistic. But this is purely my personal opinion. By the way, when I first tried pastel, I thought that holding a bear in my hands, the pastel would be painted with plush, dirty my hands. Nothing like this! It is dry, lays down beautifully and holds up beautifully, keeping the color. And clean hands.

Once again I show the pastel

But before we paint with pastels, we must finally make the bear's eyes. The technique and sequence of actions is the same as with dimples-eye sockets. We take a strong long thread, a large needle and start from the neck area, we bring out the needle with the thread in the dimple (already painted). Further, if the needle does not pass through the hole of the bead, we pull the thread out of the needle and pass the thread with our hands into the hole of the bead, insert the thread into the needle again and stick it into the plush, and bring the needle and thread out in another dimple. The actions are repeated and finally the needle and thread are brought out in the neck area. Pull the thread out of the needle. We take both ends of the thread, and tightly tie together two or three times, hide the ends of the threads inside the head, and cut off the excess. The beady eyes sank even more into the plush. Note! that the eyes are attached under great tension. It does not weaken thanks to very tightly stuffed sawdust and strong thread. That's another reason why you need to stuff your head and especially your nose very tightly. I already talked about this above.

Now how I do it, I paint with pastels. I take a pastel stick with a shade that suits me and begin to hatch (drive) over the plush with a firm hand. Like a pencil on paper, when you need to shade something not brightly. You can first try on a piece of paper, see the brightness of your chosen color, practice. You can then take a piece of plush and also work out. If you are afraid to shade the entire head at once, then initially go only along the seams of the head. This will slightly age the seams and at the same time you will visually make the threads invisible, cat. sewed the details of the head. Despite the fact that we tried to sew the details tightly, we picked up the threads to match the plush, they are still with front side, and even after dense stuffing, they are visible. Stretched to the limit and evenly and visible. So pastel will help you make them almost invisible. I did everything as described above. The entire head of the bear is shaded, there is practically no shine. I was satisfied with the result.)

It seems to me that the photo conveys the difference in color. Mishutka became a little darker.
Now it remains to do the last. It is necessary to cover the nose with either wax or varnish. Some masters work with wax. But it is difficult to work with him without skills. I haven't tried it yet, but I will definitely try it in the future. And now we will take an ordinary acrylic Matt lacquer for creative work.

We take a smaller, but stiff brush, dipped it in varnish and painted the entire nose with bold movements. It's not difficult and not scary at all. I think you can do it quickly. The varnish will not be absorbed immediately. It is necessary to leave the head to dry for several hours. In general, I try to do all the tinting in the evening, then the whole head will dry out overnight, and the nose too.

And here's what happens

On one ear, at the last moment, I decided to make decorative seams, as if someone had already darned the bear). And the same stitches on the occipital seam.

At this stage, we stop working on the head of the bear and now we will deal with the paws and torso.

Soft toy tinting is needed to give it more realism, originality and individuality.

To do this, resort to tinting its individual parts. These can be arms, legs, the area around the nose, eyes, and ears.

Competent tinting, like makeup, completes the image you have chosen.
There are many ways to tint.

I will tell you about one of them - tinting with a dry brush with oil paints. You can select paints depending on the compatibility with the fabric of your toy, I prefer the following paint colors

* mars brown light
* mars brown dark
* shungite or soot gas-black color paints for tinting toys

If your toy is light, in beige tones, then we take the first paint, if it is darker, we take the second. We take the third if the toy is white or gray. And one more nuance: do tinting only in daylight!

Before starting work, we must rid the paint of excess oil, for this we smear it with a thin layer on paper. And an hour later the paint is ready for work. paints for toning toys

Determine the areas that you will tint. If this is the head, then this is the area of \u200b\u200bthe eyes, nose and ears. Toning the toy is done mainly before making the nose and eyes, so to outline the halo of tinting, you can use tailor's pins to apply fabric nose and eyes .If you have already made a nose and eyes, stick tape on them so as not to get them dirty.

I apply the tinting of the toy with a flat brush, bristle No. 10. We dip the brush into the paint and wipe it on paper until there is practically nothing left on it.
We start with the nose. The brush goes from the center in different directions, i.e. the center of the nose is the darkest.

We tint the eyes. Also from the center to the sides, you should get the darkest place in the eye. Here's what you should get approximately: tinting the eyes and toy nose Step5.

After drying, you can sew on the eyes and nose themselves. When using oil paints, be extremely careful. To begin with, try tinting on scraps of fabric so as not to spoil the toy, oil paints do not rub off well, so any of your oversights will be difficult to remove later.

And oil paints tend to absorb well, so when the toy is dry and the color seems pale to you, you can update the "make-up", but be careful with black - sometimes it does not absorb!

Also be careful with umber paints, they can look like dirt if applied too much!

Do not forget to tint the ears of the toy (if any). We tint the ears along the seam.

We tint the heels along the seam and palms.

At your discretion, you can tint anything: hangers, upper part brisket (along the seam), the upper part of the thighs, hump, tummy.

All that you have enough imagination for, but do not overdo it - you do not want the toy to get lost against the background of your tinting and look like a painted soft lump.

Well, that's all! Your toy is ready! Let it dry a little and you can please yourself and others with it!

P.S. A little about paints and tinting tools.

Paints are one of the tinting materials, and of course the most popular. Oil paints are most often used, less often acrylic paints. Some use pastel crayons or pencil powder when tinting.

1. Oil paints.

Oil paints are pigments that are ground with oil. These paints are generally unique, they help to achieve amazing effects.
Oil thinner is drying oil. Oil paints dry very slowly, this is the peculiarity of working with it.

Oil paints come in two varieties.

Thickly ground paints are paste paints, they are very thick and must be diluted with drying oil, they can even be in the form of a powder.

Ready-made paints, they do not need to be mixed with drying oil, they are already ready for use.
Oil paints have a shelf life of 1 to 3 years. They can be mixed to make different colors.
Oil paints are diluted with solvents, read about them later in the article.

Acrylic paints.

Multifunctional, practical, less fuss with them.

When dried, they form a very strong and water-insoluble film. Therefore, after using acrylic paints, the product can not be varnished.

Acrylic is very convenient because it can work on any surface - wood, glass, leather, even metal.

But here it is necessary to take into account the quality of acrylic, since it can also be synthetic.

It can be diluted before work. It can be done with water, but it is better with special solvents, so acrylic will lie better on the surface and dry faster.

Acrylic paint can be both matte and glossy (with shine). These colors have a very rich and vibrant palette. It’s very cool that it also happens with special effects: it can contain various inclusions in its composition like sparks, sparkles, it can be fluorescent.

Pastel - most often you see it as crayons or rimless pencils, they can be round or rectangular. If you rub it finely against the base, a layer of pastel dust-paint will remain on it, which penetrates between the fibers. Plus, pastels, that they also fall on any surface, do not need to be diluted with anything, and you can change the color scheme by applying one color to another. They are not transparent and are easily shaded. It is very convenient that light pastels can be seen on a darker background and vice versa. Pastel is dry, oil and wax. Dry pastel has a chalk base, it is like “velvet” on paper. It is not presented bright colors mostly pastels. In the dry pastel technique, shading is very often used, which helps to achieve soft transitions from one color to another. Such a pastel pattern is fixed with a special varnish. Oil pastel is the exact opposite of dry pastel. Such chalk has an oil, fat base. On the surface, it looks three-dimensional, and has a rich colorful palette. Such a pastel is made from the pressing of pigments and linseed oil, hence its properties. Wax pastel - it is made from pigments and wax of the highest quality.

Color names.

Cadmium group - red and yellow colors and their shades. They are different in their saturation, they are lighter, they are darker.
Group cobalt - Includes a mixture of green, blue and purple.
Earth group - These are brown colors and their shades, also of different saturation. The name of these sao colors indicates the color: umber, minium, ocher, sienna, sepia and others
Ocher - includes different shades and names: golden, burnt, "raw".
Kraplak - There are light, medium-light and dark, it can be purple, red.
White - titanium, zinc, lead. They have different shades. The whitest are titanium and the grayest are lead.
Carbon black - Very black, and thioindigo black - a little blue.
Minium - the color of a brick).
Sepia - dark brown saturated.
Cadmium reds are various shades of red.
Cinnabar - the color of rowan, closer to red-orange
Herbal greens - like grass, only darker
Emerald green - as the name
Chromium oxide - swamp color
Green cobalt - like young grass
Blue ultramarine - blue, well, very bright

Solvents.

Solvents are substances in which oils and resins are dissolved and evenly distributed.

Turpentine
It's easy essential oil, which is received different ways from the resin of coniferous trees. Turpentine, depending on the degree of its cleaning, comes in different shades: copper-brown, yellowish, reddish-yellow, lemon, and also colorless. The cleaner it is, the more transparent. Turpentine has a pleasant but pungent smell of pine. If paints are thinned with turpentine, they dry faster. Turpentine is very convenient in its application and property, it strengthens the oil film. Turpentine is a very volatile liquid, so do not forget it close tightly!

White Spirit

It is also a fairly commonly used solvent. It is used for very thick oil paints. It smells like gasoline, but its plus is that it is stored for a very long time.

It is rarely used, mainly for diluting nitro-paints and nitro-varnishes.

Desiccant (fatty acid salts)
They are added to non-aqueous base paints, mainly for the fastest drying.
In powder they are used for cooking drying oil. They speed up the drying of paints, but the film becomes very fragile after them - this is a lack of desiccant.
Brushes.

The main tools in tinting are, of course, brushes.

Differences of brushes in shape.

The shape of the beam and the purpose of the brush are directly related.

Round - universal in its application. With it, you can vary any thickness of the line when applied. This is an excellent brush for toning, texture, work on details.
Flat - you can apply wide strokes with it, it holds a lot of paint when dipped
Oval - it is used mainly to smooth out irregularities, but only with freshly applied paint, to give a smooth surface to the product. Very handy when changing from one color to another.
Fan - indispensable for shading paint, with its help you can soften the contours, remove the texture.
Stencil - it has a blunt and flat end, and it is as if paint is driven into it through a stencil. It is mainly used when a pattern is applied to a product through a stencil, hence the name.
Flutz - EE is used mainly for painting and mainly with watercolors.

Differences of brushes by type of pile.

Brushes can be from the most diverse pile.

Squirrel (brown color, soft brush).
Kolinsky (seemingly light brown elastic pile).
Sable (red-blond elastic pile).
Pony (grayish soft sometimes wavy pile).
Goat (soft white brush).
Feline (well, a very soft white brush).
Pig bristle is the best brush for acrylic and oil paints.
Synthetic brushes are shiny brushes, unlike natural ones, they are the most durable, and the stroke is smoother, but this is only for acrylic paints. In general, synthetic brushes behave differently with different paints.

Differences in numbers.

Everything is simple here: the larger the number of the brush, the more voluminous it is.
A brush of a certain number is chosen depending on the size of the surface to be covered with one paint (of the same color). The larger this surface, the larger the number of the brush. Each brush number can also have piles of different lengths.

Brush rules.

If you leave the brush in a can of paint, the bristles will break and the handle may even come off even worse!
- After work, the brushes are thoroughly rinsed and cleaned in a pencil case !!!
- If you store brushes vertically, then the pile must be at the top
- Remember a clean brush is the key to its long life! (Just like in Soviet times in a children's camp)))))
- At least once a month, brushes should be thoroughly washed in soapy water.
-Tip: Use sticks or old brushes to stir or mix paints, so you don't have to wash the working brush once again to remove excess paint.
- If the pile is crumpled, you can lather it and leave it to dry for about an hour, then wash off the soap, while the pile will straighten.
- After working with oil paints, rinse the brushes in a solvent, then wring them out with paper, then wash them in warm water with soap and wrap them tightly in paper, so they should be stored until the next use, it is necessary that the brush tips do not fluff, otherwise they will be unusable.
- If you want to reduce the pile, then cut it first, and then, process the edges with sandpaper.

Color toning technique.

Basic tools that should be at hand when tinting.

Palette - It is very handy and you will find it in any art store, or you can make it yourself. In general, any straight surface will work for a palette.
Film - On it you would rub the brush.
Water container - any jar, mug. Only then it can not be used for food purposes.
Brushes - depending on what you will do and what effects you want to achieve, choose brushes of different sizes and shapes.
Sponge - will help you make a texture effect.
Paper napkins or toilet paper.
Newspapers or rugs to protect your work surface from ink.
Solvent.
Good luck and creative success!