perfume terms. Brief explanatory dictionary of cosmetic terms

Now everyone believes that you need to be responsible consumers and get as much information about the product that you buy. We are especially sensitive to food, cosmetics and household chemicals. Always read the composition of cosmetics and pay attention to the expiration date? Wonderful! But it's time to arm yourself stronger and find out what the mysterious symbols on the boxes, jars and bottles mean. Here is a list of the most common icons on cosmetic products with a breakdown.

Eurasian Conformity- this sign must be present on goods sold in the territory of the countries of the Customs Union. Such cosmetics received a certificate of state registration or a declaration of conformity.

Conformite Europeenne- in turn means that the product meets all the requirements of the European Union, first of all, it is safe to use.

Period after opening- a very important symbol that tells us how long the product can be stored after opening. In the center of the jar is usually a number and the letter M, which stands for months. That is, if 17 M is indicated there, then after opening such cosmetics can be stored for 17 months.

Best Before End Date- in fact, this is the expiration date of cosmetics, regardless of whether the package was opened or not. It is worth noting that such a sign is required in the European Union, unlike the United States, where there is no rule to indicate the deadline.

Mobius Loop- the Mobius loop tells us that cosmetic packaging is made from recycled materials and can be recycled again in the future. Sometimes next to this icon is indicated the percentage of recycled materials used.

Refer to Insert- a very simple sign, meaning that the product has an additional insert with information that you can read. Most often, the symbol is used on small packages where all the information does not fit.

Green Dot Symbol- the symbol is used only in Europe and means that the cosmetics manufacturer pays certain amounts to save environment and invest in recycling. But this does not mean that the packaging of the product is made from recycled materials.

Tidyman is not only a call to keep the planet clean and to throw away used packaging. This is also an indication that it is not recyclable.

Cruelty free- the sign may look different. The main thing to remember is that if there is an image of a rabbit on the package, then cosmetics have not been tested on animals.

Safety Conscious Formula- a sign of product verification by the international organization for the fight against oncological diseases. It means that there are no dangerous and carcinogenic substances in cosmetics.

Casual magazine presents to your attention a mini- alphabet of perfume terms so that you can not only easily understand the intricacies of perfumery and communicate in the same language with the seller, but also choose the right fragrance without his help. Moreover, each new season gives so many perfume novelties.

Absolute - the most concentrated ingredient in perfumery even compared to essential oils. It is obtained from plants not by pomace distillation, but by extraction. The result is a pure quality material that lies at the heart of the aromatic composition.

Blotter - this is the same piece of paper on which consultants in stores apply fragrance to let you smell it. Literally translated from English, blotter is a blotter. Initially, it was used to remove excess ink from the pen, and then someone noticed that the porous structure allows you to hear the full sound of the aroma - this is how paper blotters were born. Some perfume companies have gone further: they began to produce and use ceramic, stone and even glass models. The actual material used can be anything, as long as it does not react with perfume components or alcohol and does not distort the aroma. But, in any case, you can understand if a perfume suits you if you apply it on the skin and let it open (it will take about 30 minutes).

Distillation - the main method that allows you to extract ether from plants. To do this, they are placed in a vat and heated. As a result of condensation, distilled water and essential oils remain, which, without dissolving, appear on its surface. It is assumed that distillation was invented by the Arabs before the 10th century, and Avicenna mentions it as a method for obtaining essential oils. To this day, in perfumery, distillation produces the bulk of the aromatic components.

Musk - an aromatic component secreted by the glands of some animal species, in particular muskrat, musk duck, some species of crocodiles, representatives of the cat family and artiodactyls. They need it to mark territory and seduce individuals of the opposite sex. In perfumery, musk is used to increase the durability of the fragrance and give it a sensual noble touch. Unfortunately, obtaining this substance is associated with the killing of animals, so at the end of the 20th century, animal welfare and environmental associations, including WWF, launched a campaign against the use of natural animal civet and musk. IFRA (International Perfume Association) supported them with this initiative and strongly advised all fragrance manufacturers to refrain from using this component. An alternative was found: a plant like labdanum has a similar smell. It is he who is most often used for the production of musky aromas. Also, a musk-like substance is found in angelica root, ambrette seeds, angelica root, hibiscus seeds, and galbanum. If you come across very expensive perfumes or Eau de Toilette with musk, then most likely they are produced in Saudi Arabia. There are several farms where the necessary component is extracted without harm to animals. Adult deer are temporarily put to sleep with sleeping pills, a catheter is inserted into the musky sac, with the help of which the precious substance is literally decanted. But since this method is expensive - the cost of musk reaches 100 euros per 1 gram, this automatically increases the cost of the fragrance several times. The most prominent representatives of fragrances, with a predominance of vegetable musk, are: Very Irresistible Givenchy, Pure Poison Dior, Crystal Noir Versace, Jadore Dior, Amor Amor Cacharel.

Olfactive pyramid - is usually drawn on the packaging of perfume, and if you know how to interpret it correctly, you don’t have to ask the consultant about anything else. The olfactory pyramid is made up of aromatic components included in the perfume composition. Since each of them opens in a certain period of time, it was decided to line them up in a pyramid. At the top are the most unstable notes (the so-called upper ones), in the middle - with an average weathering speed (heart notes), and at the base of the pyramid - the most long-playing ones (they are called the lower ones, or plume).

Oriental fragrance - it is also oriental, a perfume with components that are associated with the culture of the same name. These include almost all aromas of spices, patchouli, vanilla, musk and jasmine. Oriental fragrances are somewhat heavy, thick, spicy with an exotic touch.

Pheromones - the collective name for volatile substances released by animals and humans for non-verbal communication and attracting attention at the time of excitement. The creators of some fragrances claim that they add synthesized pheromone molecules to aphrodisiac fragrances, but unfortunately it is impossible to verify this: since these important components are odorless and cause a violent reaction from others, working at an unconscious level.

fougere aroma . Fougere means fern in French. But fougere fragrances do not have the smell of this plant, which, by the way, almost does not smell. And to be honest, fougere or fern notes are nothing but a myth and once again a myth. The appearance of this type of fragrance dates back to the end of the 19th century, when the house of Houbigant released the perfume "Royal Fern" (Fougere Royale). The unusual fragrance smelled of lavender, oakmoss, vanilla and bergamot. It was this combination that gave the perfume a fresh vegetable tone, which the French dubbed "la fougere". Since then, if a perfume or eau de toilette contains notes of lavender, oakmoss, and coumarin (a hay-scented substance), they are called fougere. The most prominent representatives of fougere fragrances are: Jicky Guerlain, Egoist Platinum Chanel, Davidoff Cool Water, Eau de Tsar Van Cleef&Arpels, Boss Hugo Boss.

Chypre fragrance . In 1917, the famous French perfumer François Coty created the famous Chypre (translated from French as Cyprus). The fragrance was feminine, which in itself was a bold statement. Against the background of the usual light floral perfume, the combination of bergamot, oak moss, patchouli and incense sounded at least strange. However, the public liked this fragrance so much that a woman who tried it once went in search of perfume shops with the words: "Chypre, chypre". So Chypre became a household name, and now this word is used to name a group of fragrances in the olfactory pyramid, which always contains bergamot (lemon), patchouli and oakmoss - the rest is added to the taste of the perfumer. The most prominent representatives of chypre fragrances are: fruity chypre - Mitsouko Guerlain, aldehyde chypre - Aromatic Elixir Clinique, floral chypre - Dioressence Christian Dior, green chypre - Eau du Soir Sisley.

Essential (essential) oil got its name rather by misunderstanding - essential oil has nothing to do with oils (except texture). This is a fragrant mixture of volatile substances, which is extracted from plants in several ways (steam distillation, cold pressing, extraction). If you drop this substance (without impurities) on paper or cloth, it will evaporate in 15-20 minutes. However, chemists have noticed that you can keep the ether if you dissolve it in fatty oil, wax or alcohol. The last option perfume companies use most often.

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Photo: Iakov Filimonov/Rusmediabank.ru

When we go to sites dedicated to beauty and cosmetology, as well as read glossy magazines, sometimes we come across beauty terms whose meaning is not clear to us. The time has come to conduct an educational program and explain their meaning. Of course, most women do not use such products in Everyday life. But it’s still useful to know them so that when you come to a cosmetics store, you can freely understand the details and know what is worth buying.

Facial products

blush
It is nothing but .

bronzer, bronzer
A tool that allows you to give the skin the look of a natural tan. Externally, the tool looks like a compact powder. To “tan” the face, matte bronzers are used. And for the body (neckline, bare arms, back) a bronzer with a slight sheen is used.

Veil
Loose powder to set make-up. Removes oily sheen and allows make-up to last longer.

glitter
evening remedy, holiday makeup. Contains glitter.

Luminizer
Similar to glitter, but less shiny, contains fewer sparkles. Gives the skin a radiant glow. It looks like powder on the outside.

kabuki
A voluminous fluffy brush, similar to a shaving brush. Useful for easy application of loose powder.

katyjay/Rusmediabank.ru

Kaolin
White clay. It is introduced into the formulation of cosmetic masks that narrow pores, cleanse and whiten the skin. Preparations with kaolin improve appearance oily porous skin.

Corrector
This remedy blurs skin imperfections. It comes in the form of sticks. It is used for spot correction (cover up a pimple, etc.). But it can not be applied to large areas of the face.

plumper
It contains irritating elements that cause a rush of blood to the lips. When applied to the lips, they swell a little and become more voluminous. True, after 2-3 hours the effect disappears.

Hair cosmetics

Brilliantine
Available in the same jars as face cream. Gives the hair a "wet" effect.

brush, brushing
Round brushes for styling hair and giving it shape and volume.

Glazing
, in which only their tips are painted.

Coloring
With this method of coloring the hair is given different shades of several tones. Sometimes close, sometimes, on the contrary, contrasting.

lamination
An action designed to improve the structure of the hair. A special composition is applied to the hair, forming a thin film. It improves the appearance of the hair and protects it.

A few more terms

Atomizer
It is a spray bottle for perfumes, perfumes, etc. It has small size suitable for carrying in a cosmetic bag.

Stick
In shape, this is a rod that unscrews from the case. In the form of a stick, lipsticks, kayalas for the eyes, blush, deodorants, etc. are produced.

Fluid
This is the general name for all liquid cosmetics. In liquid form, foundation creams are produced, liquid lipsticks, liquid eyeliners, etc.

Absolute oils

Absolute oils are aromatic essential oils that are derived from resinoids or concretes. These are highly concentrated aromatic natural oils with a strong, rich and persistent smell. That is why in most cases absolute oils are highly diluted. In microscopic fractions, such oil can be added to cosmetic products. Absolute oils are obtained by the highest degree of purification.

Aldehyde shade

Aldehyde shade - an unusual, peculiar shade, has a slight floral smell with the addition of the smell of rancid fat (pungent shade). By itself, this fragrance is not very attractive, but in perfume compositions it creates such an amazing sound and gives such an unusual shade and character that it seems as if it is leading in the fragrance.

Headspace analysis

Headspace analysis - it is also often called the headspace method (headspace is an English word, means new method vacuum analysis of volatile products). As a result of this method, "live" odors are placed in a special glass flask. This cone, in turn, is connected to a special device that makes it easy to determine the molecular composition of all components. That is, this method allows you to capture and determine the aroma of a tree, flower or air and identify a list of all the chemical elements that make up its composition.

Aroma

Aroma - the word is of Latin origin. Aroma is a pleasant smell. It can cause both positive and negative emotions in a person, as well as physiological reactions, such as deepening of breathing, sometimes muscle relaxation and lowering blood pressure. Estimates of the unpleasantness and pleasantness of the smell are sometimes highly subjective and depend mainly on the experience of the person.

Base

The base is a composition that has the meaning of a simple smell, which was obtained by mixing various types of raw materials. The base is the component of the finished composition. This inseparable component is used in the perfume formulation as a necessary raw material along with various other aromatic substances and components.

base note

Base note - in perfumery, this is the name of the note that is felt precisely in the final stage of the evaporation of perfumes after the initial and heart notes. This fragrance owes its longevity to the fact that it is composed of less volatile components than the heart and top notes. Such components may not weather for a long time and do not change their aroma.

Balms

Balms are semi-liquid substances of natural origin. The composition of balms includes marshmallow oils, as well as resins dissolved in them, various aromatic and other compounds. The famous tolu balsam has gained immense popularity and popularity in the art of perfumery. All balms have their own specific natural smell, so they fix the aromas of perfume compositions, and also perfectly increase their durability.

Gamma

Gamma is a word used by perfumers to describe the range of raw materials they use to create their masterpieces. That is, for example, the gamma can be cool-floral, chypre-leather, and so on, depending on which components and aromatic substances the perfumer used to create his perfume.

head note

The head note is the "head", or start note. The head note appears immediately after applying the fragrance to the skin and remains in its pure form for the first ten minutes. The head note consists of such perfume substances that quickly evaporate. These notes include, for example, citrus and herbal notes. The head appears due to the volatility of such perfume components.

Designer

Designer - in the art of perfumery, this term means a specialist who develops, creates the bottle and the outer "shell" of fragrant compositions. The term itself is Anglo-Saxon. A designer is an important person in the world of perfumery, because a lot also depends on the external attractiveness of fragrances. Designers can come up with the shape of a bottle and decorate it with various attractive and bright attributes.

Distillation

Distillation is a special method by which odorous substances are evaporated at a certain temperature with water vapor. These odorous substances are extracted from certain types of natural raw materials. This is done in order to teach the essential oil. The essential oil stays on the surface of the water and is easily collected. This process is also called the steam distillation process.

Diffusion

Diffusion is the spread of a fragrance in the surrounding atmosphere. The word diffusion itself comes from the Latin. Diffusio - spreading, spreading, dispersion. This word has become widespread in many areas, it is most known from the lessons of physics. In the art of perfumery, diffusion means precisely the contact of the aroma with the surrounding atmosphere and the dispersion of the smell.

Dominant

Dominant - the most noticeable and pronounced note in the perfume composition. That is, the dominant can still be called the dominant note. For example, in floral notes, various constituent notes can be fragrant, but the most prominent of them may be, for example, a rose note. In this case, the perfumer might say: flower composition with rose dominance.

Perfume

Perfume is usually the richest, richest and most concentrated product in a particular line. perfumery products with one name. Often it can also be called an extract. This term means completion creative work perfume master. Often this word is used as a synonym for the words "toilet water" or "aroma", this is not correct.

Smell

Smell is a term in perfumery, referring, in this case, to simple notes or raw materials. This term, in contrast to the term "aroma", has the meaning of an unused aromatic product, natural. The aroma characterizes the smell of a finished, used product. The sense of smell reacts to the smell, which receives positive or negative emotions, depending on various factors.

green notes

Green notes is a well-known term used in the art of perfumery. As a rule, notes with aromas of freshly cut grass, roots, green leaves are called green. Green notes have an aroma of purity and freshness, they are also compared with the aromas of spring and the beauty of nature. Such popular notes give the whole composition a sea of ​​​​freshness and lightness.

Change

Change - in perfumery, this word means a change in the color and smell of a perfume when its color and smell has changed as a result of chemical or physical processes. Such processes can be: exposure to heat, air, light. Also, many perfumes often change their main characteristics due to the length of storage, over time, that is, with aging.

Isopropyl myristate

Isopropyl myristate is a special synthetic oil that perfectly softens the skin. Also, this oil suppresses the negative drying property and the effect of alcohol. Isopropyl myristate is used in almost all deodorants so that a person does not develop an allergy, and, despite the presence of alcohol, the skin condition does not deteriorate. Isopropyl myristate is a very important element.

Composition

The composition is a complete blend of synthetic and natural bases and products. This term is used by perfumers to name the product that they have received as a result of their professional creative work. That is, the composition is what the perfumer created from the composition of various components, the final result of his creation.

Concrete

Concrete - a term in the art of perfumery, meaning a semi-solid and solid product that perfumers receive after extraction with some popular volatile solvents (such as benzene, hexane) of various fragrant substances from certain types of raw materials that are of plant origin (such as, for example, rose , jasmine, narcissus).

Concentrate

Concentrate is the name of the composition, which was obtained as a result of the work on its preparation (the necessary components, weighed and taken in a certain amount according to the recipe proposed by the perfumer). The concentrates are then dissolved in alcohol, the percentage of alcohol varies depending on the product (eau de toilette, extract, Eau de parfum, or other products).

Volatile

Volatile - in perfumery, this term means a smell that evaporates very quickly. Volatile odors are mainly located in the initial notes of the composition, because, due to their properties, they evaporate rather quickly and imperceptibly merge with other odors. Volatile scents create the first impression and prepare for the main bouquet of the composition.

Line

Line - in perfumery, this term means a series of products with the same fragrance, which is sold under the same name. For example, one trading house can release perfumes, scented candles for the home, various gels and aromatic compositions that will have one aroma (for example, with the aroma of a rose) and have one name. Such products will be called one line.

Infusion

Infusion - this is a widely used term in perfumery means a special process of prolonged contact (sometimes this process can last even several years) of a liquid or solid substance to dissolve when cooled. So, in perfumery, ambergris, musk, oak moss are insisted. This is also a very important process, which is simply necessary in the art of perfumery.

The nose is known to be an olfactory organ, but, besides this, this term refers to perfumers, people who create compositions and fragrances, real masterpieces of art. These people determine how to build a composition in such a way that it fits the idea and appeals to buyers. This is one of the most important people in perfumery.

Note

Note - in the art of perfumery, such a simple term refers to a component or characteristic of the aroma of a perfume composition or a certain perfume raw material. So, for example, you can say: a floral note, a spicy note, green notes (characterized by the freshness of green leaves and grass), a note of peach, watermelon, and so on. There are initial, heart notes and plume notes.

snuff paper (test)

A snuff paper (sample) is a necessary and important item in the work of chemists and perfumers. We are talking about a special thin strip made of special paper (without glue), which absorbs moisture well; this paper is immersed in a perfume composition or other fragrant substance. While inhaling the aroma preserved on the strip, the perfumer evaluates the quality of the given product and monitors the transformation of the smell (initial, middle and final notes).

Volume

Volume - in this case, in the perfume business, this word serves as a designation for perfumes that spread quite quickly in the surrounding air. The "strength" or "volume" of the perfume causes diffusion. So, high-quality perfumes are called "spreading", which means that their aroma creates a long olfactory sensation and soars in the air for a long time.

Spin

Pressing is a popular method in perfumery. This method is necessary for the extraction of many essential oils, often from citrus peels. With this method, such popular mechanical means as centrifugation, pressing, and so on are used. This method of extracting essential oil is widespread and often used in the art of perfumery.

fern flavors

Fern fragrances are light and fresh fragrances that recall the delicious smells of fern foliage, greenery, and freshly cut grass. Such fragrances are not always obtained with fern essences. Most importantly, fern aromas carry the lightness and freshness of greenery, comparable to the freshness and original smell of fern plants.

Perfumer

Perfumer is the profession of a person who creates perfumes. It would be more accurate to say that the perfumer-creator is the person who composes the perfume. This man produces the most complex and responsible process, as a result of which new, different, original formulas and delightful compositions are born. Without a perfumer-creator it is impossible to imagine any perfume.

perfume liquid

Perfume liquid is a phrase that does not apply to any aromatic composition or fragrant substance. This phrase in the perfume business is used exclusively to refer to an alcoholic solution of a perfume concentrate. A widespread and used term among people who are seriously involved in perfumery and the creation of fragrances.

Resinoid

Resinoid - in perfumery, this is the name of a fragrant resinous product, which is obtained by a process of special treatment with volatile solvents of gum, some balms and natural resins. Usually resinoids are used in the final note of perfume compositions. In fragrances, resinoids are often used to make a perfume last longer and keep its fragrance as long as possible.

Heart

Heart - or core, middle note. These notes are fully developed after the head or initial (top) note, and before the final note (trail). The heart note is the defining type of perfume smell. The middle note is very important, which is why when choosing a perfume, you should wait a bit for the middle note to open up in order to objectively evaluate the whole fragrance.

Combination

Combination - this word in perfumery refers to a special effect that is obtained by professionally mixing two or more simple notes or types of raw materials. This is the name of a harmonious and pleasant combination. This happens when the intensity and quantity of each aromatic substance and fragrant raw material is balanced and brings positive emotions.

Stabilizer

The stabilizer is a special chemical compound. This substance is sometimes used by experienced perfumers to add to perfume compositions. This is necessary in order to slow down the oxidation processes in aromatic compositions and compositions. This substance stabilizes all processes, allowing perfumes or other fragrant compositions to be better preserved without losing their properties.

Dry perfume

Dry perfume - a special mixture of aromatic (sachet) substances, as well as crushed odorous and aromatic plants with a special filler. Usually dry perfumes are packaged and sold in small sachets, pouches. Dry perfumes are very popular, they are often placed in the house or put under the pillow for scenting, various compositions can help you fall asleep, relax.

solid perfume

Solid perfume - ointment (waxy) mass, most often solid perfume is made in the form of a pencil or packaged in small jars. Such solid perfumes are saturated with special aromatic and fragrant substances and are usually colored. It is convenient to take such perfumes with you on the road, on a tourist trip, put in your purse or cosmetic bag to always enjoy your favorite fragrance.

Subject

Theme - in perfumery, this is the main smell. Around this smell, the perfumer-creator develops his art and creativity. The perfumer is based on this smell and is already trying to adapt to it, choosing different notes and essences that will go well with the theme. This is the so-called "starting point" of the creativity of the master of perfumery art.

Test

The test is a special test that allows you to objectively evaluate the perfume composition, the finished perfume product before it enters the market and is put up for general sale. Testing like this is essential to ensure the quality and aroma of a product before the vast territory of perfume lovers finds out about it.

Odor Type

The type of smell is the smell, which depends on the composition of the aromatic substances that are included in the composition. The type of smell is an extremely important component when choosing scented products (for summer and winter, for young and mature men and women, for parties and work). There are the following types of smells: warm, fresh, warm, cool, spicy, dry, tart, bitter, oriental, balsamic, exotic.

Farnesol

Farnesol - deodorant natural ingredient used in perfumery. Farnesol destroys bacteria that are hateful and cause an unpleasant smell of sweat. Despite the fact that farnesol destroys these bacteria, the rest of the biological flora of the human skin is not disturbed at all. This also does not negatively affect the structure of the aroma, its shades and fragrant properties.

Chromatography

Chromatography is a popular physical and chemical analysis method that allows not only to identify, but also to control the quantitative and qualitative composition of a perfume product or composition. Thanks to this analysis, it becomes clear whether everything is correct and whether all the substances in the required quantities are taken into account in a particular perfume product.

Plume

Loop is a term that conveys the olfactory sensation of perfume that a perfumed person left behind. In perfumery, the plume opens last, after the initial and middle notes of the perfume composition spread in the air. To feel how the plume will open, you need to wait a while after applying the fragrance.

Essential oil

Essential oil - in perfumery, these are essences or aromatic components, as well as volatile plant extracts, which are obtained either by cold pressing or distillation. essential oils oils of sandalwood, rose, lemon, tea tree, lavender, lemon, eucalyptus, mint, mandarin, orange, juniper, almond, lemon balm and so on can be called.